QUESTION ABOUT OSAGE

[wildcat hunter]

We are finally cutting the limbs from a blown-down Osage and I've got a question. I took the limbs to a sawmill and had them cut a 3 1/2 wide piece down the middle of the log. That gives me 2-4 bows ( in theory). My log has 1st - bark, 2nd white inner growth and then a tough 1/4 to 3/8 thick growth that looks and acts like Hickory, very tough and flexable. The outer summer growth rings are small and the inner ones are about 1/8 thick, I can get a 2nd bow from the inner rings. Can I shave that tan, Hickory - like wood to an even thickness and leave it on the "back" of the bow to act like sinew - to strengthen the back naturally. I'm afraid the small summer growth rings may have to be backed so why not use a "natural - provided" backing.

[Osagetree]

I am working on two limb bows of osage. There was not enough heartwood to make a bow so the white wood is left on the back and the belly is heartwood. I only scraped the bark off though. In my opinion, cutting into the whitewood may compromise the fine rings in the white and cause a failure there. I think the whitewood of osage will probably provide the bows more string follow than the all heartwood bows. I'm talking selfbows here not cut boards!

[John Scifres]

It depends.  If sapwood is intact and dried deliberately and fairly quickly, it seems to do pretty well.  If it has been dead a while it might have some decay issues.  Sapwood rots more quickly than heartwood and it will check like heck if not sealed right away.

[Pat B]

I have used sapwood osage before with good results. As long as you know it is sound, osage sapwood is as strong or stronger than many of the whitewoods. Like with other white woods I prefer to use the sapwood directly under the bark. This is for a stave bow. I probably wouldn't use the sapwood in a board because of the violations that sawing creates.

[mike mcguire]

I am pushing a bill in congress right now that would make it a federal offence to saw osage,,split your osage into staves make bows,,,why saw the best wood in the world for bow,then back it ,,  remember the best backing on osage is AIR

[DVSHUNTER]

if I understand your questuon correctly, which is can I use a single growth   ring that is tan in color then the answer is yes. The dark tan rings will work as long as you follow one ring the entire length. Osage, unlike hickory, needs this single ring to survive the bending process.
  it is tough to answer you because of the way you  describe the log.  It seems like you aren't sure of the summer/spring growth. The white inner growth you refer to is still made up of summer or late growth rings that are more solid, and  the spring or early growth rings  that are more porous. This pattern repeats every year with the white rings eventually turning tan or yellow. I hope that helps and doesn't ramble. I also agree with both posts prior to mine.
  just  pick a nice thick ring  that you can safely chase and  work it down. Seal the ends and back and let her dry.

[Pat B]

Mike, you have my vote!!!  IMO, The only reason any osage should be sawed is if it is not appropriate for selfbows and even then I'd rather try a selfbow. d;^)

[wildcat hunter]

Thanks, I'll try to explain better. The whitewood ( tan ) is directly under the part that brings the sap up in the spring, I don't know the proper name - thats only an eight of an inch thick. The tan part "on top of the summer growth is about 3/8 of an inch thick. I'm not down to the rings yet, after this thick growth is taken off then we are at the growth rings. I think the 1st 3 replies answers my question though and I am going to try it.
  As for using a sawmill and not splitting staves - I'm still getting staves, NOT boards from the logs. They are 12"-20" in diameter. I'm having a 3 1/2" thick board cut down the "center" of each log. That gives me a piece of wood thats 3 1/2" by 20"by 7' long. Out of that I get two or sometines 3 staves on each side of the heart ( core) of the log for ""selfbows""!! Thats 4-6 bows from that 1 cut. ALSO I still have the  halves that came off the slab to split for another 3-6 staves. Belive me I want nothing more than to create "selfbows".
I do have some side pieces that are too thin for a selfbow and have ripped them for a glue-up but several of us here are more into PRIMITIVE ARCHERY

[John Scifres]

Unless the log is really straight, splitting staves usually works best.  Probably no harm done but osage often has character that isn't obvious and milling it will cut through the grain.  Good luck and have fun.  That's what it's all about.  Got any pics?

[DVSHUNTER]

I see now! I couldn't picture the way y were cutting the log. Good luck with the bows.

[wildcat hunter]

Thanks guys, I want to get a camera so I can get some pictures. I keep you posted, thanks for the support!

[George Tsoukalas]

"Thanks, I'll try to explain better. The whitewood ( tan ) is directly under the part that brings the sap up in the spring, I don't know the proper name - thats only an eight of an inch thick. The tan part "on top of the summer growth is about 3/8 of an inch thick"
Just under the bark is the cambium which contains the xylem and phloem which transports the sap (nutrients). Bowyers call it the inner bark because most don't care about science. LOL. Anyway, It is the only living part of the tree. Sorry for the science lesson. I can't all of a sudden stop being a science teacher just because I'm retired.
I'm afraid that I just can't understand what your question is. I guess I'm obtuse.
Just some observations. Osage likes to have a heartwood back. If you don't have enough wood to make an all heartwood bow get as close to the heartwood as you can. The sapwood will be stronger. The reason is the cambium turns into sapwood. The sapwood becomes heartwood Therefore, the closer you get to the heartwood the stronger and denser the sapwood. I can see everybody rubbing their eyes and and yawning. LOL.  Second observation is be sure to lay out your bow following the longitudinal grain.  That becomes particularly important after using a saw to split the staves up. Have fun.    Jawge

[wildcat hunter]

Thanks George, I have the wood cut 3 1/2" so I can (later when dry)split it up 1 side, I think that will give me the grain running the length of the bow. I can work from there.