Which way to go for first self bow?

[scottq]

Hello,

Looking at doing my first bow, but can't decide between a board bow or one from the hickory stave that I have. Will post a picture of the stave later today.

I have access to tons of good boards since there are some good lumber yards in the area, as well as the usual home reno joints.

I have a fairly well equipped woodshop (bandsaw, tablesaw, hand planes, drawknifes, spoke shaves).

For this bow I would be looking to get something in the #40 27-28" range. I have some friends who come out and shoot with me occassionally and I want this to be my 'loaner' bow, so would be looking to have a shelf in the design.

Been lurking and reading all the great bow builds. Makes me want to build lots of things. Time to go do another round of straightening on my new japanese bamboo shafts.

Oh, any other bowyers up here in Ontario?

Scott

[Pat B]

Boards are cheap. Check out George Tsoukalas' site for all you need to know about building bows and specifically board bows.

[walkabout]

i agree, a board bow is fairly simple and can easily be tillered to 40-45#, my first came to 49#@29" it will also give you the chance to learn on the less expensive piece before setting out on the hickory stave, and board bows can be really gratifying and just as fun to shoot as any other bow. i just finished my sisters bow and even though it is light that thing puts arrows right where you look every time, no matter whether its a cheapo carbon or a handmade hunting arrow, any spine shoots great out of it. good luck.

[Pete W]

Start with a couple board bows to get the hang of tillering, and identifying hinges and fixing them and such. Then go for the staves.
 I have only made about a dozen bows , and so far I am pleased with the results. Starting with a board bow was a good move for me to learn the basics .
 Getting staves is the problem now.
 Pete.

[walkabout]

haha im with ya there pete, only way im gettin my hands on a stave right now is by spending more money than i can really afford right now so for the time being board bows it is. they are excellent for learning scraping techniques and how to work grain though. scott just remember to go slow as you have to to be comfortable, and use whatever tools and methods work for you. ive recently started using a tillering block with a pencil inserted and found it works really well. good luck.

[yewsage]

hey over there in ontario you can probably get elm and hop hornbeam.  I agree with the guy from Alberta:  start with boards to get into it, but get out in the bush and take a couple trees home right now, so when you burn through your board bows you have cured staves ready.

[scottq]

Thanks guys, that's what I was figuring. The only reason I was debating going stave is that I have a pretty nice hickory stave that I got for $20CDN.

Also I have a black locust stave. I can get elm, and hop hornbeam. The hornbeam is usually pretty small maybe 4" diameter around here.

My local lumber shops are:
 www.amwoodinc.com
and
 www.exotic-woods.com

A and M sells bow staves for $35, elm, hickory and black locust.

So Yewsage, you out on the left coast?

I grabbed a red oak 1x2x6 at the depot today, nice wide late wood and straight grain, so the next question is style, pyramid? or more the pattern that George Tsoukalas uses? or the one over at poorfolkbows.com?

Too much fun, and too many projects.. fletching, new quiver and bowyering.  

Scott

[Pat B]

You will appreciate your hickory stave more if you tackle it after you have honed your tillering skills.

[walkabout]

the 1x2x6 is best used with the designs on georges and sams sites, i dont think theyre wide enough at all for a pyramid tiller to apply.

[George Tsoukalas]

Thanks, Pat and Walkabout. Scott, I'd go with the board. I'd make a bend in the handle bow as per the buildalong on my site. The bend in the handle bows are easy to tiller for your first. How's the grain? Jawge

[walkabout]

no problem. scott the pyramid limb design is used with a 1x4 oak, and the limbs end up being i believe 2 1/2 inches at the fades narrowed to 1/2 inch at the tips. the limbs are then worked to a consistent thickness the entire length, and the whole concept actually is very easy to tiller due to the strength of wood in relation to its width. im not certain the specs exactly on the formula but it basically means the limb width taper is what dictates the bend or tiller due to varying width, thereby strength.