Sanding Off Smooth On Glue Line?

[ChristopherO]

I'm looking for your techniques on this issue.
What do you use to remove the excess smooth on layer left on the fiberglass when feathering down the overlay edges?  I've been trying to sand it with the osculating orbital sander but I am concerned it will eat too much fg off.

[gudspelr]

I'm pretty new to all this, so I'm sure the more experienced guys will chime in.  For future glue ups, I've been told/read that the best way to take care of the excess glue (before it's a big problem) is to put tape on the fiberglass prior to gluing up-that is, at the edge of whatever you're gluing on.  That way it keeps the oozing out onto the tape, not the fg.

Having just glued up a bow last week for the first time, I can sympathize with trying to sand that stuff off...dries REALLY hard and I can imagine the anxiety of getting to much fg while sanding.  I'm sure the better/more experienced bowyers here will have some good advice on your predicament.  Hope all goes well for you.

Jeremy

[Canadabowyer]

Next time pre-bevel the overlays and wipe away as much of the excess glue as you can. For this one take some 100-120 grit and sand it down by hand. I take a small square of sandpaper, about 1 inch square and rub with my thumb on the overlay and when it starts to get even with the glass switch to finer grits till its smooth. Good luck!! Bob

[Jason Scott]

Back the sand paper with a hard block of wood so that the paper only sands on the glue and not the adjacent glass at the same time. If you use a soft backing you will force the paper to sand glass next to the glue while it is sanding the glue you intend to remove. Both of the tips above are the way the best bowyers do it. Pre-beveling and tape.

[DCM]

Pre tapering and taping off the area are good ideas.  Also, a round tool creates a flat surface.  I use a 1/2 round file for rough work, then sandpaper.  Avoid going across the grain once you get close.  Take your time, good light, magnification if your eyes are as old/poor as mine.  You can take a little glass, but try to avoid getting onto the glass until you are down to 220 paper.  I generally go down to 320, 400 before the first coat, then 400 (wet) between coats of finish.

[strungstick]

Tape can not only keep most of the glue off of the glass but it acts as a good indicator when you go to sand it off.  I use the blue painters tape, so it is easy to see.  As you sand and you start to see the tape being removed you know you are starting to hit the glass.  I use a small rotary dremel sander on my overlays to feather the edge and only switch to a 1/4 sheet sander for final sanding.  The dremel gives you a high level of control and allows you to only sand the areas needed.

[Jason Scott]

I really need to get a dremel. I think I struggle the most at these taper areas when finishing. I need all the help I can get here.

[ChristopherO]

I ended up using the Dremel to get them where I wanted.  Got a bit aggressive in a couple of areas but nothing super glue couldn't fill and blend in with.
Thank you for all the enlightenment.  I had used tape but my glue line was just too thick to keep the transistion clean.  There must be a better way than what I originally did.

[Bow-n-Head]

Use your scrapper. Pull it from glue joint toword you. Work carefully, take your time. I'll work. Ray

[DeployableBowyer]

When you are gluing the overlays on, after clamping, wipe off the extra glue that oozes out. After curing, use your spindle sander like before to get close to the fiberglass (about 1/16" or so) and then take it the rest of the way down with your palm sander using 150 grit and finer the closer your get to the glass.