Tru Oil/Spar Urethane Tips

[gudspelr]

I settled on the Tru Oil/Spar Urethane combo for my first bow.  I remember some other guys asking questions about it before and figured I'd post some of my observations.  *Note-this was applied to a glass back/belly longbow, not a selfbow.

I sanded the bow all the way down to my fine steel wool and wiped it all down with a washcloth I stole from the drawer.  After making sure all particles were removed as best I could, I applied the first coat of Tru Oil using my finger.  I tried keeping the oil on just the wood portions (from some of the reading I'd done) and off the fiberglass.  I set two dining room chairs a few feet apart and after I thought I had a good coat, I just laid it on the chairs to dry.  I put 4 coats total of the oil on the bow and sanded it with the fine steel wool (wiped off before next coat) in between each coat.  The oil left a really nice looking, shiny and smooth finish.

One problem encountered-I couldn't manage to keep the fiberglass completely free of the oil.  I wasn't sure what it would look like under the urethane if I left the smudges, so I ended up taking some coarser steel wool, getting it off, then sanded again with the fine.

I also read that if I used a sharpie marker to write on my bow, it might bleed or smudge on the Tru Oil.  I used a scrap piece of actionwood from the build and put the oil on it as I did on the bow.  I used it as a test piece and found the sharpie had no problems at all.  I did find that a fine point marker from a craft store that was otherwise "permanent" wiped right off the Tru Oil surface, even after several hours.

I hung the bow in my garage and began applying the urethane.  A great guy on here told me to be sure and follow the instructions on the can.  It says you need to put your coats on no more than 1.5 hours apart, otherwise you need to wait 72 hours.  I put on several coats today and it's drying nicely in my garage.  The semi-gloss dulled the oil's shiny finish somewhat, which I'm happy with.  It's not the smoothest, nicest finish, but for finger and rattle can application, I can't complain.

For those of you considering trying the combo, I found no significant problems with it at all.


Jeremy

[scrub-buster]

I am finishing my selbow the exact same way.  Tru-oil coat #4 is drying.

[Dick in Seattle]

Hmmm....    I use the True Oil, generally four rubbed out coats as you describe, but I had never heard anything about keeping it off of the glass.   I let a rag absorb some, then wipe it over the entire bow, glass included.  I try not to wipe on too heavy.  I use a thin thread looped into the top nock and hang it to dry.   Rub first coat out well with steel wool.   Subsequent coats I only use steel wood if there is need, i.e. any runs.   After the first coat I have only had runs on two bows out of 20.  With four coats per bow, you can see I don't get them often.   The coats after the first one (assuming no runs) are rubbed out with a piece of chino or denim.  I certainly don't get a fine furniture finish, but what I think is a good looking tough finish for a working bow.  I used to use wipe on poly vinyl, which also worked well, but the True Oil is faster.  I can get four coats on in two days.

[BWD]

I normally use four coats of spar, because I have read it can crack, on the limbs, if you build up the thickness too much. There are certainly other folks that know more about this than me, however. The first time I used it, I applied five thin coats and had no problem.

[gudspelr]

BWD-thanks for the info.  I put on more than 4, so will be curious to see how it goes when I start shooting it.  If I have any problems, I'll be sure and note it back here.


Jeremy