Lumber question

[JesuslovinGoose]

If I was going to go to a lumbermill and get a red oak or hickory board for a bow what cut should I specify?  I know there is a specific cut that's best but I can't remember what it is.  I know I read about it somewhere but where I don't remember.

[IdahoCurt]

I would imaging 1/4 sawn of extremely straight grain if you are not backing it.

[yamapup]

I think that in any case you will need to select the board yourself. I use to go and take a pencil will me. I'd find a promising board and mark the grain from one end to the other. Around the cut end  and then the other side. If I could determine that the grain ran reasonably straight on both sides, I was happy. Pup

[George Tsoukalas]

All board cuts are good for bows. I look at the edge grain and want it straight tip to tip. I do allow 2 run outs or ups per limb. More on my site. Jawge
 http://georgeandjoni.home.comcast.net/~georgeandjoni/

[JesuslovinGoose]

I thought there was some sort of lingo for a lumbermill like parallel linear grained or something along those lines.  I guess I was thinking there was a definition that would narrow down the pile or whoever was working would know what I was looking for.  Not looking to have them cut me one but to help in selecting from the piles.  Thanks for the speedy replies!

[vanillabear?]

[Loren Holland]

If you are just looking through the piles you know what to look... but something else to think about.
If you are going to a lumbermill, and paying the expense to have something cut, then go ahead and get a higher quality bow wood. Red oak is a cheap great way to start building bows, but you can get one at Home Depot cheap without paying to have it cut and going to a lumberyard.  when I do go to a lumberyard I usually have them resaw or rip a true 2 inch board into 1/8 inch strips, so that I go home with a stack of backings (usually hickory, but you can back with elm, walnut, and maple depending on what the belly wood will be) and then whatever boards I came for.   Be aware that when you say hickory, it may be hickory and it may be pecan that you get.  If you are to the point that you want to try a different wood, I suggest Ipe. I know some will disagree, but I love it. Yes, it needs to be backed. Yes, its toxic, you might itch, and you need a respirator or at least a mask...but if you take care, it is so worth it.
one more thing...if you having anything cut, i would suggest trying (at least once) getting the board cut down two lams, a core, and a belly that is just a bit thicker than the core (to give you a bit of fudge room to tiller). I don't know if you have glued anything up yet, but you don't neccassarily need fancy forms and glues. And you don't have to be intimidated by the process, my first form was 2x4, with two bricks to set it on, and four bricks to give me the height on the ends. I have Urac now, but I have glued up plenty (even bamboo) with TBIII and the only trouble i ever had was my own fault for a bad mating surface (not the glue).
The point of this rambling is that if you going to a lumberyard take advantage of getting something other than just red oak, and using their saws. Set yourself up to try something new too. I don't know if you have backed a bow yet with something other than paper or cloth, but I am a Perry Reflex fan. I think is easier to glue (over heat or steam, my opinion) in some reflex and it has efficiency advantages too. (if you are using a white wood and heat treating remember to heat treat first, as you can't do it after glueing).
alright i know i kinda went a couple directions there, but just wanted to point out how a couple of decisions at the lumberyard can lead to so much

[Pat B]

Bias or edge grain are the best. You will be hard pressed to find true quartersawn boards at a lumber yard. Most of the folks I've ask didn't know what I was talking about.