Introduction and problem with 1st attempt

[duckclay]

Hello all. I can't begin to tell you how great it is to have found this site. I've never before been so quick to join a forum as I have with this one, and it's all because of you, the members.
I'll try to introduce myself properly at a later date, but I've really been bitten by the building bug and have run into my first big "oops". I've started a red oak board bow and despite reminding myself to measure umpteen times and cut once, I had a serious brain lapse and cut my wood at 62" instead of my intended 72". My question is: Though I will absolutely complete the new compact version, what can I legitimately expect in the way of poundage? My initial intent was to get between 40 and 45lbs to try using this bow next turkey season.

Oh well, it just gives me an excuse to go find another piece of wood. Any and all help/advice/criticism is welcome. Thanks, Brad

[John Scifres]

I'd bet you will struggle to get a 28" draw from a 62" rigid handled oak board bow without a lot of string follow.  Now, if you make it bend in the handle, maybe 1-1/2" wide for half the limb tapering to 1/2" nocks, 1/2" thick, you should be able to get 40# at 26".

[duckclay]

Thanks John. I believe I'll just try to make this one for my friend's son. He's got the shooting/hunting bug so it should be put to good use. I'm just trying to look at it as a great learning experience as opposed to the snafu I was afraid it was.

[walkabout]

i agree with john, with a rigid hgandle glued on 28 inches is pushing it for that stave. i have built a bend through handle though at 60 inches in length, it pulls about 55#@28" took more set than any other bow ive built, but is still a sweet shooter in its own right.

[duckclay]

Ok, so it seems that I could salvage this as one for me but I might be pushing it. Gentlemen, I have to admit my ignorance. I understand the concept behind not using a rigid handle, but what do I give up with that type of bow. I had just about convinced myself to simply make a smaller "kid's" bow out of this one to get some practice for when I actually remember to measure correctly.
At this point I bow (pun intended) to your greater knowledge. What would you do? Really make a young man's day with a new recurve or take the opportunity to keep building one for myself? Either way my buddy's son will be getting one somewhere down the line if I can get this right. My daughter will also, but at 18 months I'm afraid her draw length will be a little short.

[duckclay]

I almost forgot. Thank you so much for your input. I can't say this enough and can only hope to pay it forward some day.

Brad

[walkabout]

with a bend through handle generally the only thing you would lose is the ability to shoot many diferent spines of arrows, theyre picky as to what spine you shoot because the handle is wider and the arrow has to flex more to get around it. my bow like this shoots best with arrows spined to around 29# range, which i just cut my arrows longer than normal by 2 inches and they shoot great out of it. also with this design you have to use leather to build up the handle area to make it more comfortable. it takes a little bit of work but the results are something im fond of, very simple and almost as primitive as a selfbow.

[Stiks-n-Strings]

DuckClay,
 
 You will definetly not regret giving the bow to young feller mentioned. My first real shooter just got shipped to Switzerland in the TG bow swap (which will be coming up again in Jan) check out the two threads on it. there where some sweet board bows built for it. Also if you haven't already check out 4est trekkers build along.

 Stiks

[mater]

Dont let the mistakes get you down either. Weve all made alot of bows not up to par on this journey. Most you can save in some manner, and no one else knows the differance. Soon youll be able to make whatever you want first time.  Mark

[duckclay]

Guys, I really appreciate the advice and kind words. I will definitely be building more and different types of bows. Honestly this thing is just kind of taking over my thoughts, sort of like when I first started hunting. I went 5 years before I got my first deer and still stuck with it. I think this will be the same. I'll keep you guys updated and will certainly check out 4est trekkers build along.

Thanks again guys,
Brad

[fish n chicks]

Finish the bow like you would if it was for you. I'm sure you will still get a good shooter cause i've done that myself. You'll just have to thin up your limbs a little more. This is very important PRACTICE for you anyway cause, and i'm not the only one that'll say this, but this won't be the last bow you build IF you finish it. Start with a 1/2" thickness, making sure to round your edges EVERYTIME you tiller, and work down from there. Assuming you're going with a 2.5-3" pyramid width.

Oh and post pics! Welcome to the addiction.

[duckclay]

Thanks for the welcome fish. I'll take pics along the way and post once I get rolling a little. Unfortunately I took this up at a crazy time so it's going to take a few weeks. Funny, when I read about guys doing it over a weekend. Getting married in Nov. so it's taking a backseat to the prep (that's what I'm telling here anyway)

Thanks again. My name is Brad and I'm a new addict

[George Tsoukalas]

Welcome, duck. Can you let the handle bend? There's board info on my site. Jawge
 http://georgeandjoni.home.comcast.net/~georgeandjoni/

[John Scifres]

I highly recommend you get the first Traditional Bowyer's Bible.  Read the Design and Tillering chapter a few times.  You'll learn a lot.

The bottom line is that you need to design your bow for the characteristics of the piece of wood that you have.  Some woods stretch and compress better than others.  Red oak is a good wood for availability and makes a decent bow when designed properly.  But, it is relatively weak in compression when compared to osage or yew or good hickory.  Therefore, it needs to be made longer and wider than bows from those woods.  

Since you removed some of the length, the only option you have is to use the center of the bow to do some of the work.  A rigid handle bow does not work in the center.  

You can't really make a bendy handled bow much wider than 1-1/2" since arrow spine becomes too critical.  So you are stuck with that width.  A 62" long, 1-1/2" wide red oak bow won't give you much more weight than 40# and 26" draw without really compressing so much that it breaks or follows the string so badly that it is a dog.  You can try it though.  See what happens.  Experimenting is fun and you might just have an extraordinary piece of red oak.  We never really know for sure.

[John Scifres]

Oh yeah, one more little hint.  It may be different in Florida since you're deer rut different but don't get married or have kids in November if you are a hunter.  My wife's birthday is November 9th.  I usually celebrate it at deer camp     She doesn't mind...too much.

[walkabout]

i agree with john, unless youve had some experience with tillering a 62 inch red oak board bow is a tough one. ive managed one that short, but it was after a bunch of failures and a bunch more successes.lol it was of course a bendy handle bow, and lifted a splinter along the way even with careful tillering. took 1 3/4" of set too.