My latest (80#+. BBI)

[kmc06005]

Unstrung
 
Full brace
 
Handle
 
Full Draw
 
Dont tell my wife
 

The bow is a Bamboo Backed Ipe 58 NtN 80# @26, but I'm pulling it to a little over 27. The bamboo has been backed with a mossy oak long sleeve t-shirt.

Had a little trouble with the spots around the ends of the forward handle where I clamped down the boo. I used C-clamps and they left a ring indention.

So it popped a splinter. Bob Barnes told me to wrap it and then do the other side to match. I had to fatten up the grip with a little camo cloth tape and decided to do the same to the wrapped spots.

I wasn't looking for 80# but thats where it ended up, It stacks a little the last couple inches, but its pretty smooth otherwise, quiet too.

Now I just need to figure out how to get an 800 grain arrow that'll fly.

Thanks for looking.

[Schmidtster]

That bow is totally wicked. did you use a heat box when you laminated it?

[Roy from Pa]

Next time pad the back of the bow with something  so the clamps don't indent the boo. Looks nice.

[kmc06005]

Schmidster - I use Urac 185 and let it set for about 24-36 hours in the shop, then take it off the form and unwrap it and let it set for another day or so inside my house.

Roy - What would you suggest? Just a scrap piece of wood? The boo's rounded back is the only thing that puzzles me with this conundrum.

Thanks for looking...

[Pat B]

Maker clamp pads with bamboo scraps. The inside if the pad(concave) will conform with the outside(convex) of the boo backing. I think Eric posted pics a few months ago of these. It is his idea.

[Pat B]

...oh!  By the way, cool bow. Should punch a hole in a deer for sure.  d;^)

[kmc06005]

Thanks Pat, that's a fantastic idea!

[Pat B]

Do a search for Eric's thread. Lots of pics and explanation!

[kmc06005]

I'm on it.

[Bob Barnes]

way to go Mike!

[Schmidtster]

Thats cool I was wondering if I could get away with no heat. Also a clamping idea I've heard of glue 1/2" dense styrofoam insulation on a pice of 1x4 scrap and the styrofoam conforms a little to what your working with and provides a bit of cushion but can crackk if given to much pressure. I think I might give it a shot.

[kmc06005]

I haven't used a hot box yet. I think it speeds things up a bit, it might be worth the investment, but not worth the wait... if that makes any sense.

[Roy from Pa]

Mike, just like Pat said works. I use a whole piece of boo cut out just like the boo I am gluing on the bow. I also glued a 1/8th thick piece of felt to the flat side of the boo I use for padding. I have had splinters in boo bows just like you had, because I also did not pad the clamps till I learned from that mistake.

Urac doesn't take very long to dry, 1 day would be plenty, or 2 if it makes you feel better Mike. I used to put my BBO bows in a heat box. But it doesn't take much heat to suck the moisture out of the boo, and the too hot heat box I used did just that and made the boo brittle.  

You can see the boo padding strip I use here.

 

[jonathan creason]

Cool bow.  What are the dimensions?  I'm getting ready to start on another BBI, and I'd like to go a little heavier.

[kmc06005]

Thanks Roy. I let the Urac dry so long, for the reason you said, It makes me feel better. Plus I don't get in too much of a hurry at glue-up because once I start sanding off the excess I can't seem to put em down.

Jonathan this piece of ipe came from a 5/4x6 board. So its about 1" wide at the fades, straight taper to 1/4 at the tips.

The handle is a 1" thick "powerlam" from red oak

58ntn

I glued in about an inch of deflex and 0 net reflex. It gives it alot of limb to play with, but does slow it down a hair. (compared to other ipe designs)

[chrisg]

hmm nice bow. Rather too heavy for me..! I just put one into the hot box. Plan for two hours or so at about 60 C. Also used URAC185. I don't clamp in quite so much reflex/deflex and end up with a pretty straight bow after its shot in.URAC sets fast so one has to have everything set up nice beforehand. I am keen to see how it turns out.
chrisg