Hickory Board Bow questions

[dposalski]

My son is building his first bow out of a piece of hickory.  We are shooting for about 35#@23.  We are using the plans that we have seen on Jawge's site and we have a 12 inch taper at the ends and 1.5 inches wide.  the board is still full thickness ~3/4 in.  The bow is 60 inches long, 59 NTN. Tips are 1/2 inch wide. My questions is would it make more sense to narrow the limbs more to start, or stretch the taper down to the handle(like a pyramid),or just start tillering from the belly and leave it full width?  We are going to put on a handle section that will be non-bending and shaped.

[Pat B]

I would leave it 1 1/2" wide. You could start your side taper 6" to 8" from the fades and taper it straight to the tips.   Actually you might not need much of a riser for a 35#@23" bow. Mark out the handle and fades and start reducing the limb thickness in an even taper to the tips. Check the floor tiller as you go to be sure your limbs are bending evenly.  Don't forget to exercise the limbs between each wood removal session but don't pull it too far until you are sure the limbs are bending well.

[Pat B]

I just noticed you were from Seaside. We had a family get-together at a place called Reunion House on Seaside beach a few years ago for my Mom's 90th birthday. We love that part of Oregon...actually we love every part of Oregon we ever visited. My sister and younger brother lives in Beaverton.

[dposalski]

That's awesome. My son wants a pretty handle and since its a board,we are gonna fashion him something purty.

[George Tsoukalas]

dposalski, for a 35# bow you can rip that board too 1 3/8 in. Mark of a 4 in handle and leave that area alone while tillering. Just past mid limb narrow to 1/2 inch nocks.  Let the handle bend. Easier to tiler that way.  Don't narrow the handle. Do round off al 4 corners. Jawge

[Pat B]

You can add an overlay and/or underlay of other woods at the handle area to dress it up. If each piece was 1/4" thick you will have a 1 1/4" deep handle when added to the 3/4" thick stave.

[dposalski]

How would I let the handle bend and over or under lay other woods.  Wouldn't that cause it to stiffen there or pop off any under lays?

[dposalski]

So do I tiller with the center of the handle as center or the arrow shelf as center?

[Pat B]

You said you were building a non bending handle bow. The board is 3/4" thick. By the time you remove wood to get it to 35#@23" the 3/4" handle area probably will not bend. The over lay and under lay will fill out the handle area so it is comfortable to hold. With them for support you can also cut out a shelf if you wanted and narrow the width of the handle.

[dposalski]

Thank you. Pat. Should I tiller itfirstor attach the handle first?

[Pat B]

You could go either way. I don't shape the handle until the bow is completed. Handles and tips are the last thing I do before adding the finish. Concentrate on the limbs bending well and together.

[George Tsoukalas]

If you are following my instructions you don't narrow the handle. Jawge

[hova]

I narrowed my handle and left it thick, otherwise I just tapered from the end of the fade.

it bendy handle with no overlays yet. you can take a bunch off the sides before you notice it bending . so far its awesome...

-hov

[hova]

I narrowed my handle and left it thick, otherwise I just tapered from the end of the fade.

it bendy handle with no overlays yet. you can take a bunch off the sides before you notice it bending . so far its awesome...

-hov

[George Tsoukalas]

Yes, he could day that but he is just elarning and that makes it tougher. Jawge