Ding Ding round 2

[KellyG]

I spit off another piece of wood. I cut it down to 62.5" long and it is 3/4" wide at one end and is only around 13/4" at the handle and goes to over 2" at the bottom.
Please correct me on any of it you think I have the wrong on this plan here.
I will shoot for a bendy handle since it is not long. I will also try and to only taper  from the handle to mid limb only about a 1/4". So above the handle it will go from a around 13/4" to 11/2" then fade from there t o 1/2" tips. The handle will be 4".
Before I start I will fill the checks with a glue called titan. It's label says it is a cyanoacrylate adhesive is and has an activator that speeds drying times but I think is super glue of sorts (we will find out).
I have pics of the hole stave. and pics of the top and bottom showing my concerned areas. Top it split around a knot, bottom has knot and checks. I will try to lay it out so as to get rid of the knots but the checks will have to stay. Once it is laid out.
I then will lay out the bow and let the shavings fly.
 

top
 

Bottom

 

thanks for your help and guidance in advance,
Kelly

[hova]

leave the knots if ya have to. I think for d-bend you should taper the whole limb . my d-bow is 62" I think.

on the bright side you should be able to just use some straight paracord for this string.


are you chasing rings on this stuff?

-hov

[hova]

and yeah cyanocrilite is superglue

[KellyG]

No Hova I dont have to case any rings that is under the bark.
thanks for the input,
Kelly

[John Lipinski]

The split around the knot looks a bit dangerous--I'd be careful there. Are you going to back this?

Either way, get some shavings flying and good luck this time around! shame the first one went to pieces.

[hova]

ok wasnt sure if you went any deeper. must have been a blonde moment...


so wheres the pics?
-hov

[KellyG]

Ok to day if filled the checks with super glue. I marked my center line, that is giving me pause. I am now thinking I may have to go back out and see if I can get another piece off, and try a splice. The knots are just too close to my center. and there is not enough wood to leave around it. The problem with a splice is I have never done one, I don't have any glue, and cutting even surfaces will not be easy. We will see what tomorrow brings. I split another piece off just to see what I get off and go to the PX and see what glue they have. I may get lucky and split off a piece that has less knots in the way. We shall see.

[hova]

I'm so jealous of your standing selection of well seasoned wood!

how long would you have if you omit the knots?

-hov

[KellyG]

I would lose 18" of lenghts. Don't be too jealous I have not turned it into anything yet.

[Pat B]

Kelly, If you leave enough wood around the knot and can place it about mid limb, side to side and handle to tip, you should be able to work around it. A knot in the handle(or other non-working area) wouldn't be bad either.

[KellyG]

Pat B the way this split the upper knot there is a little over and 1" there and the lower is not much over 2" and just looking at it. I think it will be right on the edge of the limb. It is only about 62" long. I will get more pics on here before I try anythin rash.
As always thanks for you advise,
Kelly

[KellyG]

Ok here is the new plan cut and splice these billets to gather. You may ask why not just use the longer just as is. It has a bad crack running about a foot or so down the middle and had a really bad check on the outer third.  
My plan trim the edges of the newly split one and find the center. Glue them at the handle and shape and tiller. I have never tried this so any and all advise will be necessary and welcomed.  I have brown paper here so I may use that as the back. I will try a straight taper from the fade to the tips. Since I will be gluing the widest ends to gather 2+" are possible.
would a 5" handle and another 2" per fade be enough or overkill?
Off the top billet it will get cut a few inches above the bottom knot. The other one almost at the bottom. I seen someone working on a table saw so I think I will see if I can square it up a bit on the belly. I will also try to use it to create my splice joints.
PICs of the billets
 
 

[Pat B]

Kelly, when you make your splice and glue it up wrap the handle area with strong twine and set that in glue. It will make a good handle wrap plus add lots of strength to the splice.
 Also when you have a spliced handle you have to shape the handle areas to the near finished handle size as to not cut into the splice after the glue up.
  If you have access to a bandsaw cut a "Z" or "W" splice. With the "Z" splice you can make both cuts at once by clamping them piggyback before cutting the splice. These will mate right together. You will have to make both areas that will be the splices similar in width and depth with good flat, square surfaces.

[KellyG]

Pat Thank,
I will look into a bandsaw, I have not seen one yet. I know I seen the table saw. I was going to use it to square up the bellies and sides. I was thinking of using 550 cord as a handle wrap any way. If I cant find a band saw could I cut both in half depth wise and 4"-5" the thinest one from the belly and the thickest one from the back glue them togather then drill and glue three pegs, then wrap them?

[hova]

if you can only find a table saw , try doing a scarf joint , then doing a riser over and underlay.


wish i knew what kind of wood that is...

-hov

[Pat B]

Para cord is pretty thick. I think I'd use some of the filler cord for the wrap. Do like hova suggests if you do a scarf joint and add over and under lays before you wrap. I would not use pegs. They will weaken the joint. IMO

[KellyG]

Thanks,
Got 550 cord to thick gut it
no pegs
Scarf joint and add over and under lays.

Hova it is some kind of cedar. Is all I can say

Thanks again,
Kelly