jeff, when you do the sleeve takedown, you will loosa at least 1/8 " of wood depending on 2 facters. one is the kerf of your saw . 2 is how square you are actually able to cut it from the back of the bow. now that being said. if you already have an estabilished top limb. you need to make sure it is perminently attached to the sleeve , for water proofing reasons. you need to use a brass pin for malluable reason so you can file it smooth to the steel outer sleeve. use a metal - wood 2 part epoxy for the brass sleeves to the wood. when you cut your stave plase the brass sleeve against the edge grain of the stave half and trace the outside circufrence of the brass sleeve , you can do the rough shaping of the brass sleeve to this line. caution you need to make sur the flat part of the brass sleeve stays perpendicular to the back of the stave. if you dont your bow will take on unwanted limb twist. once you shape to the outside scribe line of the sleeve . this is where you want to slow down. start from the limb butt and get the sleeve to just fit and slowly work towards the fade until you get the brass sleeve to fit it doesnt need to be entirely smooth you. once the brass sleeve is fitted to its entire2" length/ you need to mask off the entire fade area with painters tape. apply a good coating of the five min epoxy, and slide the brass sleeve on. let it cure for 24 hrs for max hardness. keep us posted i hope this helps. ruddy