Where do you locate the grip?

[Zradix]

Hello,

When designing a bow do you most always put the "pressure point" of the grip in the center of the bow?

Or do you put the shelf in the center?

I can see where both would make sense.
...Maybe split the difference?...

Thank you

[GREG IN MALAD]

I put the pressure point of the grip at the center of the bow, and the shelf 1" above center.

[George Tsoukalas]

The last bow I built has the shelf 1 in above center. Usually I put the shelf at 1.25 in. If I feel I need to make the bottom limb stiffer I will lower it. I don't know what you mean by "pressure point of the grip". But I measure the handle 2 inches in either side of center. Middle of the handle is the center. Fades are each 1.5 in. Jawge

[jsweka]

In the laminated glass longbows I've made, the shelf is 1.75" above center.

[Bradford]

Interesting... I have always put the shelf at center..Pressure point is right under it.. maybe 1/2".. I make really thin shelves..

That is the design I got from Binghams.. the center line if measured is at shelf level..

I build glass recurves.  Might need to try something different.

[camoman]

Ditto, the one I built had the shelf at center.

[Art B]

Generally, for longbows, the rest is located 1 1/2"-2" above center of the bow for most folks. Locators type grips are closer because of less hand/heel contact. Like 1"-1 1/4". Nothing really written in stone I've noticed.......Art

[SEMO_HUNTER]

I mark center on my stave right after roughing in in and before I go any further so I'm always aware of where center is on my bow blank.
If I sand or file it off, I'll mark it again with pencil of course. Don't use a sharpie cause it will bleed into the wood rather deep.....don't ask how I know.

Then I mark my grip area out 3-4" on each side of that center mark. You can always fine tune that dimension later, but that will give you plenty of wood to work with and leave extra in case you screw up.

I try to shoot for the crotch in my shooting hand between my thumb and index finger to be really close to that center mark. That's why most guys, including myself leave the grip looking plain and generic until the very end. It's the last thing to get finished, because you may end up with a different bow after tillering than you had in mind when you started? The top limb may now be the bottom limb and vice versa.

Sorry for the long explanation, I didn't feel like just one sentence would be able to explain all of that.

[Zradix]

Originally posted by SEMO_HUNTER:
....It's the last thing to get finished, because you may end up with a different bow after tillering than you had in mind when you started? The top limb may now be the bottom limb and vice versa....

Good thought!
Thanks!  

[Art B]

Semo-Hunter, I always pre-determine my bottom and top limb because I want the strongest limb down. You can read the growth rings to know this. First thing I do before going on the tillering board is finish out my handle. Since I cut shelves into my bow there is no swapping ends. Plus I believe the finished handle is part of the finished tiller in may case.

This just shows a different contrast between bowyers and pretty much nothing else......Art

[SEMO_HUNTER]

I used to do that when I first started making my own Art, but started leaving that part for last because too many times I have ran into problems half way through the tillering. I have even had to cut off 2" from one limb tip because I found an anomaly that I couldn't work with. I also like a small shelf for my beaver pad to recess into the shelf just a little bit. Still basically shooting off the top knuckle of my bow hand, but just a small indicator for consistent arrow placement. I also really like the quietness of a beaver pad against the shelf and get awesome arrow flight with them, so that's another reason why I like one and I use them on all my bows. Of course I have a good supply of tanned beaver at my disposal and I also use it for string silencers.

Like you said, it's a personal choice really and each bowyer has to develop their own style.
Mine are kinda old school Hill style with a slight variation in the grip. I like a little bit of a dip in the handle to cradle between my thumb and for finger, with the arrow just above.

[T Folts]

I make 3pc longbows and the center of the grip (pressure point) goes in the center of the riser, my limbs are equal length and the shlf goes in at 1 in above center.

[KellyG]

I really dont know but I know how I am going to find out sooner than I want to I think.

[Dick in Seattle]

I generally subscribe to the "middle/middle" school.   Middle of riser to middle of bow.  Shelf ends up an inch or a bit more above, which, with a straight longbow riser, puts the balance point of the bow on the heel of the hand, where it should be with a low wrist grip.    On my Forward Scout (forward riser) longbows, which have a deep locator grip that raises the wrist some, the shelf moves down closer to the middle of the bow, since the pressure point has moved up.  

It's all very complicated, ain't it?  And, as noted:

"The top limb may now be the bottom limb and vice versa...."


And right here you have the single greatest reason to use the truly "classic" longbow riser... narrow with no shelf at all.  Finish the bow, take it out and shoot it, then turn it over and shoot it again.   It'll tell you which limb should be up and which down!  Designate the upper by slipping a little leather wedge in the riser or inletting a pressure button and go have fun.  Mostly, we all spend too much time thinkin' and not enough shootin'...

 

Classic shelfless riser with leather wedge and pressure button

[GREG IN MALAD]

It doesn't matter where you put the shelf in relation to the bows center. As long as it's tillered properly it will shoot good. I will say that with the shelf 1" above center the bows are very forgiving of different tiller and shooting styles. I have bows that range from even tiller to 1/4" positive, and the nock set is close to 1/2" above square on all of them. And it doesn't matter whether I shoot split finger or 3 under.

[John Scifres]

I use the point midway between the nocks as my fulcrum.  The grip style detemines where the fulcrum lies in the handle.  I usually use a locator style that falls right on it.

[Art B]

One sure thing out placing the arrow pass at dead center is that the bow can never be properly timed with equal limb mass. I would have to take my teeth out to shoot something like that  :eek: ........Art

[Zradix]

Art B...

Could you explain what you mean please?
Pretend I'm completely ignorant...cause I am.
Thank you.

[Art B]

Zradix, the center of the bow should also be the center of it's mass. If you grip the bow below the center of it's mass then you are in effect shortening the lower limb and making the upper limb longer. Or having more moving mass in the top limb vs the bottom when you shot the bow. Unequal energy has to be absorbed somewhere. And that's the bow arm. So you would want the center of the bow centered in your grip with the arrow pass above that.....Art

[Zradix]

makes sense.
Thank       you