tanned snake skins

[Andy Cooper]

Why is it said to be a bad idea to skin a bow with tanned snake skins?  Thanks.  

[razorsharptokill]

I think it is that the air dried skins are thinner(more paperlike)and conform to the surface better.

[Steven Russell]

I also understand that the tanning agent makes it hard to get the glue to adhere and so they may peel off from the bow easily.  It's been awhile, but I seem to remember hearing that contact cement may overcome that problem.  No first hand experience though to back that up so take it for what it's worth.

--Steve

[Pat B]

Tanned hides will readily absorbe moisture and with their thickness(compared to dried skins)is hard to seal well. Glycerin(sp) tanning(antifreeze) isn't actually tanning but curing and the glycerin can prevent glue adhesion. Dried skins work best for bow backing and are the easiest to prepare.

[Stiks-n-Strings]

Pat hit on the head. Tanned skins are good for quivers and armguards and such but not for bow backing.

 Stiks

[tommy6]

You can do it, here is one way: Size the flesh side of skin with super glue and let dry. You may need a few coats. Than use contact cement, coat bow back and sized flesh side of skins, let dry and put em on.
But... its much easier to use dried skins. I think dried skins add less mass to the limbs.

[SEMO_HUNTER]

Could I step in and ask a question while you all are on the subject?

Would any of you fellas like to give a brief description of your air drying process? I may have some guys that will be looking for some snakes for me soon, and I told them just to skin, freeze, and ship as quickly as possible. Then I would take care of the rest when they arrive.

Thanks, sorry if I hijacked the post Andy but I figured that question was going to be asked sooner or later anyway.

[vanillabear?]

[SEMO_HUNTER]

Thanks VB, that's easy enough.

[Diamondback59]

i like to salt them  sun dry them when tacked to a board  then  soak
 em in warm water when im ready to use them and apply to the bow  brock

[Pat B]

I do the same as vanillabear except I use a staple gun and staple them to a sheet of plywood in my basement. It doesn't take them very long at all once you get the other tissue off.
  I don't like adding salt. If their is any salt remaining on the skin it will attract moisture, even under a finish. I don't find it necessary to salt snake skins at all...or tan them in any way.

[DanaM]

I was told to remove the glycerin in tanned skins that you soak them in lye and then rinse well. By lye I mean white wood ash and water.

[K.S.TRAPPER]

Yep, Salt's a bad idea if you plan on backing with it. Ben there done it and it works but the skins are still trying to peel off years later.

I didn't salt it a friend did I air dry mine too and never had a problem.

Tracy

[Andy Cooper]

Originally posted by SEMO_HUNTER:
Could I step in and ask a question while you all are on the subject?

Would any of you fellas like to give a brief description of your air drying process? I may have some guys that will be looking for some snakes for me soon, and I told them just to skin, freeze, and ship as quickly as possible. Then I would take care of the rest when they arrive.

Thanks, sorry if I hijacked the post Andy but I figured that question was going to be asked sooner or later anyway.

 

No worries S_H! Internet forum discussions often twist and turn. I think your question was a good one!