Ash bow question

[Knawbone]

Ok heres the deal, Im building an ash bow witch is at floor tiller stage. Istarted building it from a 2 1/2 -3" sapling. Because it was a small dia. I planed the back down to 1" wide and plain on using a maple backing strip. The bow is 67" long with only 1 1/4" at the fades. I have the limb edges square at the fades and thought it would be best to leave the rest of the limb sides traped. Right now the limbs are 1" the full lenght. Handle lenght to fades is about 9". Back wiil be flat and traped,-Question, Will this work, and how should I shape the belly and taper the limbs. Any help to save it, please   Bone

[Knawbone]

Substitute the word fades for dips, wrong terminology-sorry guys, Knawbone

[Knawbone]

what no one works with Ash? It's OK , coming along fine.

[KellyG]

Hmm don't know I have only 3 attempts at a bow. Hickory failed, cedar? blew a part, and an osage that is going to be the longest build in history. I thought I would just get this ttt for ya.
Kelly

[Ryan Yoon]

I've never worked with ash but my guess is that it will probably take a fair amount of set being that thin in width depending on your draw weight. Keep the belly as square as possible and I usually taper the limbs from full width at mid limb to 3/8" tips for a regular flat bow but you may want to extend that width out to 2/3rds of the limb length.  As for taper I find a straight taper from 7/8" at the handle/fades to 1/2" is a good start for a mid weight bow.

[fujimo]

even with a 2" width at fades, i still find that ash can take a set,
glue in some reflex when you glue the backing on.
i usually go 2' wide fron fades to half way up the limb , then taper to 1/2" nocks- if you are putting tip overlays on, then you could go down to 3/8"- thats a std, "pattern" for white wood bows.
but like ryan said, maybe you want to go full width a bit further past 1/2 way, then taper to the tips.
g,luck
wayne

[okie64]

Im having a hard time following you. Are the limbs 1-1/4" wide or 1" wide? At 67" and 1-1/4" wide I'd say make it a bendy handled bow or it is probably going to take a lot of set. Like fujimo said glue in some reflex. What kind of ash do you have?The only ash I've worked with was green ash and the bows I built did take quite a bit of set.

[John Scifres]

It'll work but I wouldn't go for more than 40# at 28" with 1-1/4" width.

[7 Lakes]

I'm with John, even with only 40# you don't have much room for tiller error.  
For every inch of reflex glued in I'd subtract 5# from the 40.  
Ash makes a nice bow but must be built wider.

[Knawbone]

Thanks for all the great info guys. I was going to try and get 45# out of the bow ,but 40# would work as its for my brother. Hopefully I can get that,I will find out as I start tillering it tomarrow.

[Eastern fisher]

Hi there.  Not a pro but I live in Nova Scotia and all I can find here for a decent bow is Ash.  White to be exact.  I have found that with ash there is absolutely zero consistancy with the grain. I have also found out and have learned that with ash I leave my upper limbs pretty close to 2 inches with and taper down to 3/4 to 5/8.  The belly I have been told by Bowers here in my area to have the belly with some slight roundness to it.  Just makes it that much stronger.  Like I said.  Not a pro, have built about a dozen bows with Ash.  Hope this helps

[Knawbone]

Thanks for the info Fisher, Ya the bow is white Ash W/ Sugar Maple backing, for witch is tapered down to 75 thousands at the tips. I started building it from a 2 1/2" sapling so the growth rings are small and quite straight for the most part. I started tillering it today. So far it seems very strong for the thickness that the limbs are at .    

[Eastern fisher]

I was always told as well that with Ash the bigger the grain the better the bow.  Apparently the larger grain is still strong enough to use and is more forgiving.  I have the help of a few Bowyers here that belong to a local Archery Club and they all have said the samething about the grain.  I am at that stage where I am more concerned with learning the craft and learning to read the grains.  I am not as picky about the grain right now. As long as it is straight and follows from one end to the other I use it.  Like I said I have built about a dozen bows and have only lost one to breakage. ( my stupidity).  Again hope this helps.  If you want to chat more [email protected] is my email.  Take care, good luck and have fun.

[George Tsoukalas]

Sure it will work for 35-40#. Jawge