Author Topic: smooth-on question  (Read 554 times)

Offline karrow

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smooth-on question
« on: March 05, 2011, 08:51:00 PM »
getting ready to try my first laminated bow. boo backed hickory. smooth-on was my glue of choice and i am trying to figure out what method of clamping would work best for me. i did a search and all look fine. planning on curing with heat in a reflex profile. so my questions are.

1 what clamping method do you perfer?
2 do i use a toothing plane (hacksaw blade) for the joints?
3 does the saran rap clamping trick work with smooth-on?

  thanks alot
Kevin Day

Online kennym

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Re: smooth-on question
« Reply #1 on: March 06, 2011, 09:33:00 AM »
1.- I use c-clamps on riser blocks,and airhose on bows. If you use clamps on the whole bow, you may want something to equal out pressure, a pressure strip of some sort.

2.- I never do, sanding with 40-60 grit is all it takes.

3.- Me gluing without plastic wrap would be a disaster! I use the cheaper walmart stuff, not as clingy and easier to handle.

Good luck and have fun!!
Stay sharp, Kenny.

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Offline tenbrook

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Re: smooth-on question
« Reply #2 on: March 06, 2011, 09:34:00 AM »
1.  Fire hose or rubber bands.

2.  No.  

3.  Never heard of this technique.  I use saran rap to protect my form/firehose from getting epoxy on it.

Good luck and be sure to post photos of the bow once it is complete.

Tenbrook

Online kennym

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Re: smooth-on question
« Reply #3 on: March 06, 2011, 10:22:00 AM »
3- Reread this, plastic wrap is only for protection of stuff you don't want glue on.
Stay sharp, Kenny.

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Offline karrow

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Re: smooth-on question
« Reply #4 on: March 06, 2011, 11:23:00 AM »
kennym tenbrook thanks alot.  :thumbsup:
Kevin Day

Offline Dick in Seattle

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Re: smooth-on question
« Reply #5 on: March 06, 2011, 11:38:00 AM »
Like the rest, I use the plastic to protect the form and clamps.   I use overhead clamps with steel through pins.   Made these from 3 way edge clamps:

 

3 Way edge clamp

 

bottom screw posts removed

 

in use with steel pins through form

 

hanger straps are added to lengthen for the riser.

I like these because they center the pressure and pivot on the pin to clamp at any angle on the riser
Dick in Seattle

"It ain't how well the bow you shoot shoots, it's how well you shoot the bow you shoot."

Offline hardwaymike

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Re: smooth-on question
« Reply #6 on: March 06, 2011, 12:04:00 PM »
Nice, Dick! Cool idea.
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Believe it or not the "HARDWAY" is often the EASIER way(in hindsight)!
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Offline Zradix

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Re: smooth-on question
« Reply #7 on: March 09, 2011, 02:26:00 PM »
Quote
Originally posted by kennym:

2.- I never do, sanding with 40-60 grit is all it takes.


Good luck and have fun!!
Really 40-60 grit?
Do you do that by hand or power?
Seems like power always gives a finer finish than by hand if using the same grit.

I had no idea it needed to be so rough.
If some animals are good at hunting and others are suitable for hunting, then the Gods must clearly smile on hunting.~Aristotle

..there's more fun in hunting with the handicap of the bow than there is in hunting with the sureness of the gun.~ F.Bear

Offline Ironfist_Canada

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Re: smooth-on question
« Reply #8 on: March 09, 2011, 08:42:00 PM »
Great idea Dick I like it.
If you are happy with your station in life , then you are as rich as any king. John

Offline Savage

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Re: smooth-on question
« Reply #9 on: March 09, 2011, 10:02:00 PM »
Dick that has to be the best clamping set up I've seen yet.
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Offline Mt. Clemens Bowyer

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Re: smooth-on question
« Reply #10 on: March 12, 2011, 11:53:00 AM »
Karrow

  If you decide to use the fire hose method for clamping up your bow, and the bow you want to build is a recurve, I would suggest splitting up a few 3/8" dowels length wise, and putting these in your bow form at any point where there is a radius. Example: The riser, and the curves near the ends of the bow.  It will make tighter glue joints.

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