Author Topic: Tapers split under the glass. {photos added}  (Read 405 times)

Offline matt g meyers

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Tapers split under the glass. {photos added}
« on: March 06, 2011, 01:31:00 PM »
Well things were coming along well on this bow, 64" reflex/deflex longbow hard rock maple parallels and western red cedar tapers. I pulled it from the oven and went to cut in out and tiller,all fine and good,then after the tiller checked out ok I set out to remove the tape on the belly side. Then I noticed that in two spots on the tapered lam's the grain separated for about 3". Yes it is an eye sore but the void is completely filled with smooth on, so I wonder what any one thinks on this one.
One is over the riser and I can clean it up when I cut the arrow pass, but the other is on the top limb in the working portion.

The fact that I've read here before is that if it were not under clear glass I would never have any idea and life would go on.

Has any one witnessed this result in a bow failure?
Matt
"this is a weapon from this century...I just made it!"

Offline Trux Turning

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Re: Tapers split under the glass. {photos added}
« Reply #1 on: March 06, 2011, 04:24:00 PM »
Probably nothing to worry about other than "looks" if the glue fiied in the void all the way. Post a picture of it and you'll get more feedback.

Online kennym

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Re: Tapers split under the glass. {photos added}
« Reply #2 on: March 06, 2011, 05:03:00 PM »
My hunting bow 2 years ago was osage flat grain, glued it when glue was a little cold, hydraulic pressure split both belly veneers for better than a foot, 1/8" wide in center.

I shot the heck out of it with no probs,like yours the glue filled with no air in the crack.
Stay sharp, Kenny.

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Offline matt g meyers

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Re: Tapers split under the glass. {photos added}
« Reply #3 on: March 06, 2011, 06:00:00 PM »
here's two pictures of one, and I already sanded over the other one, so it wouldn't show very well.

thanks for the help.

 

 
"this is a weapon from this century...I just made it!"

Offline NYArrow

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Re: Tapers split under the glass. {photos added}
« Reply #4 on: March 07, 2011, 04:17:00 AM »
Man what a pain in the neck that is. Hydraulic press can do that? Thats pretty amazing. Hope you get er fixed up and flying straight.
Choose this day whom you will serve...as for me and my house, we will serve the LORD.
Joshua 24:15

Offline rmorris

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Re: Tapers split under the glass. {photos added}
« Reply #5 on: March 07, 2011, 08:54:00 PM »
I have had the same problem when I was using c-clamps. I guess i just used too much pressure. I later backed off how tight I put on the c-clamps and no longer had any problems. I now use the air hose method with at 55psi and get better looking limbs with no little dents from the clamps. I hope some of this helps you.When this happened to me the bow shot great and never had a problem.
"Havin' such a good time Oo-de-lally, Oo-de-lally Golly, what a day"

Offline bjansen

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Re: Tapers split under the glass. {photos added}
« Reply #6 on: March 07, 2011, 09:19:00 PM »
ERC is famous for doing that.  I have two ERC veneered bows that have done that...just like yours they completely filled with smooth on and they shoot fine.  

In fact, that last hill bow I posted had ERC lams that split.  I don't think it looks too bad under the glass and I wouldn't worry about it.

Offline matt g meyers

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Re: Tapers split under the glass. {photos added}
« Reply #7 on: March 07, 2011, 10:12:00 PM »
Thanks Too all.I will go on with finishing it and post some pictures.

Very interesting that the red ceder is a repeat offender.
"this is a weapon from this century...I just made it!"

Offline traditional beagle

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Re: Tapers split under the glass. {photos added}
« Reply #8 on: March 09, 2011, 11:28:00 AM »
I would say it has more to do with the knot being located there than the fact of red cedar.

Online Walt Francis

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Re: Tapers split under the glass. {photos added}
« Reply #9 on: March 09, 2011, 02:26:00 PM »
I had it happen with osage in several places on the first glass bow I built, the bow shoots fine.  Now I inspect  my veneers for cracks and then super glue them before the final build.  In addition, inflating the hose is now done in 10-15 pound stages evey 90-120 seconds to give the glue a chance to seep out. I have not had any problems since implementing these steps.
The broadhead used, regardless of how sharp, is nowhere as important as being able to place it in the correct spot.

Walt Francis

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