Author Topic: Begining the journey: FG bow building (Added photos and asked some questions)  (Read 497 times)

Offline OkKeith

  • Trad Bowhunter
  • **
  • Posts: 1237
I have all my parts together, I've read everything I can find on the subject. I think I'm ready!

I've spent the last several weekends designing and drawing patterns for risers and limbs. I finally worked it all out. This bow will be for my wife, a late Valentine's Day present (Kenny cut the lams on V-Day, he says they already have mojo).

The bow will have .05 black glass back and belly with two .1 parallels and a .1 taper (.002). The riser is 13 inches long and two inches back to belly. I'm using charcoal gray Actionwood for the riser.

I'm planning for an inch and a half wide and 58 inches long, going down to three-eights of an inch wide at the tips. I'm hoping for 40 pounds at 26 inches.

This last weekend we plotted out and finished the form. We are going to use the "rubber band method". Here are a few photos...
   

   

Stay tuned for more progress, and more pictures...

OkKeith
In a moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing. The worst thing you can do is nothing.
Theodore Roosevelt

Offline JamesV

  • Trad Bowhunter
  • **
  • Posts: 2027
Looks really good and good luck with your first build

James...............
Proud supporter of Catch a Dream Foundation
-----------------------------------
When you are having a bad day always remember: Everyone suffers at their own level.

Offline Swissbow

  • Trad Bowhunter
  • **
  • Posts: 868
Looking good, way to go.

----------
Andy

Offline OkKeith

  • Trad Bowhunter
  • **
  • Posts: 1237
Hey Andy! The length/draw-weight/stack-height chart and the other information on your website was invaluable in my quest to gather all things "Bow Building" (that and KennyM's advice).

I have the riser roughed out and will finish the fades and dry-run everything at least a hundred times before I crack the lids on the smooth-on (I'm OCD that way).

A TIP FOR WOULD-BE BOW BUILDERS: I bought a 4 piece set of drum sanders for my drill press and thought I got a good deal for $25.00 from Harbor Freight. I was skimming throught the Woodcraft website last night and discovered that they have the SAME SET FOR HALF THE PRICE! Would probably still be cheaper even if you had to order it (especially if you were ordering something else anyway). Just thought I would pass that on.

More photos to come after our "Big Build Weekend".

OkKeith
In a moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing. The worst thing you can do is nothing.
Theodore Roosevelt

Online kennym

  • TG HALL OF FAME
  • Trad Bowhunter
  • *****
  • Posts: 17318
Great start Keith !!  :thumbsup:    :thumbsup:
Stay sharp, Kenny.

   https://www.kennysarchery.com/

Offline SEMO_HUNTER

  • Trad Bowhunter
  • **
  • Posts: 2792
I'm gonna be right behind ya Keith, so I'll be keeping a close eye on your progress. I want to build my own glass laminated wood R/D longbow kinda like a hybrid design. So keep lots of notes and I may be hitting you up for some tips and advice once you get all the bugs worked out.   :thumbsup:

BTW- I bought a drum sanding kit with arbor and about 8 extra sanding tubes for less than $10 bucks at Lowes just in case you want to check there. I believe it's a Gator Grip brand too?
~Varitas Vos Liberabit~ John 8:32

Offline chirodoc

  • Trad Bowhunter
  • **
  • Posts: 2
made a takedown recurve last year for my first bow. this year I am thinking about using the rubberband method. I will keep up on your progress. GOOD Luck

Offline OkKeith

  • Trad Bowhunter
  • **
  • Posts: 1237
I had hoped to post some photos of a glued-up bow, but life being what it is we ran short on time. Lisa and I didn't want to rush things so we decided to hold off for now. We will get back on the build in two weeks after OJAM next weekend.

We did manage to get all the glass and such cut to length, did some other small details, worked on the riser some more and tricked-out the form. Here are a few photos:

I was able to fine tune the riser a little more to ensure a perfect fit with the form.
 

We added some "cleats" to the form so we wouldn't have all the parts slide side-to-side on us during the glue-up.
 

We also added a formica strip to really smooth out the curves on the form and ensure a solid base. Looks pretty slick now (pun intended).
 

Since this is my first fiberglass bow build, I have a few questions for you seasoned hands. Is it OK to wrap everything in plastic to keep the epoxy off the form and keep the bow from being glued to it? Any other pointers so that the glass, lams and riser don't become a permanent part of the form?

Thanks!

OkKeith
In a moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing. The worst thing you can do is nothing.
Theodore Roosevelt

Offline GREG IN MALAD

  • Trad Bowhunter
  • **
  • Posts: 458
I would suggest a more gradual taper on the fade outs. My fade outs are 1/8" thick, 2 inches from the end.
To keep the bow from sticking to the form you can use floor wax or silicone spray on the form, or just cover it with saran wrap.
I didnt miss, thats right where I was aiming

Offline fujimo

  • Trad Bowhunter
  • **
  • Posts: 3619
mould release wax from a fiberglass supply store- at least 8 coats.

Offline Trux Turning

  • Trad Bowhunter
  • **
  • Posts: 1814
Floor wax on the form-covered with plastic wrap will keep the glue off the form and no sticking. Those cleats are a good idea- you may want to take some washers and drill a hole(off set) to use instead-easier to work around then what you have. I'm with Greg on your riser fades-they need to be paper thin and tapered or you will have problems.

Offline OkKeith

  • Trad Bowhunter
  • **
  • Posts: 1237
I appreciate all the advice!

I really haven't started thinning out the fades on the riser yet. I have just been working on getting it to fit the form. I'm a pretty clumsey dude so I didn't want to risk dropping it or buggering it somehow until I was ready to glue-up. That's the last thing I was going to get ready.

Will Johnson's Paste Wax work for lubeing up the form? Several coats? I was gonna cover the sides with painters tape as well.

Thanks again for all the help.

OkKeith
In a moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing. The worst thing you can do is nothing.
Theodore Roosevelt

Online PV

  • Trad Bowhunter
  • **
  • Posts: 918
Johnsons works well. Good thinking on the fades.

Online jess stuart

  • Trad Bowhunter
  • **
  • Posts: 1716
Looking good keep us posted.  Love your form.

Offline **DONOTDELETE**

  • Trad Bowhunter
  • **
  • Posts: 10441
I love Johnson paste wax. great stuff!

Offline Robertfishes

  • Trad Bowhunter
  • **
  • Posts: 3490
I have been using good old Turtle Wax in the green can..I also use it on my metal pressure strips. I also have used a spray on Teflon that drys quickly. I think the wax is the best choice for me

Users currently browsing this topic:

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.
 

Contact Us | Trad Gang.com © | User Agreement

Copyright 2003 thru 2024 ~ Trad Gang.com ©