Author Topic: Hophornbeam bow making questions  (Read 405 times)

Offline dinorocks

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Hophornbeam bow making questions
« on: April 05, 2011, 09:27:00 PM »
Please   :help:  I found a very straight, ~8-10-inch diameter hophornbean (HHB) tree with about 14 feet of branch-free trunk with no twist on my property that I would like to harvest in an attempt to make a bow(s).  I’m having a hard time finding specific information on making a bow with HHB.  What I have found is that HHB can be a very good bow wood.  If possible, can someone help me with some basic questions?

1.   Should I wait until the buds start to swell/leaf before I chop it down (i.e., making it easier to remove the bark)?

2.   Do I use the sapwood or heartwood (i.e., follow a growth ring) for the back? This is a Western New York tree with, I suspect, very thin growth rings.

3.   Are HHB bows typically backed (I’m looking for a 50-45 pound bow at 26 inches)?  If so, linen, rawhide, sinew…

4.   Regarding bow dimensions, any suggestions…I prefer a longer bow (~68 inches)?  Not sure if I should plan for a wide-thin or a narrow-thick style bow.  It would be really helpful if you could suggest fade and tip width, and distance from center that the limb starts to taper.

5.   I would like to put a little “recurve bend” at the end of the limbs…I have never tried putting a significant bend in a bow other than using a heat gun to remove twists and/or adding a little back-set.  Is HHB amenable for bending?
 
5A.     If so, can this be done with a heat gun or should it be steamed (I’m looking for an excuse to try the steam method for my first time but don’t want to make a make-work project if a heat gun will do the job).

5B.   Not sure how you might be able to describe the form profile for a bend toward the tip end…how far from the tip should the bend start?

Thanks in advance for your time providing insight on the questions above.  I’m really chopping at the bit to get started!!!

Sincerely,
Dino
"Speedy arrow, sharp and narrow."  GD

Offline George Tsoukalas

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Re: Hophornbeam bow making questions
« Reply #1 on: April 05, 2011, 10:03:00 PM »
1. Yes. 2. Take off the bark and there is your back. 3. They could be but they don;t have to be.. Depends on your experience level. I don't back bows usually. 4. Can't say w/o knowing your draw length. 5. I'd say yes to that but I don't usually do much bending except to correct. 5a. Don't take a heat gun to wet wood. 5b. I'm not sure I understand. I like the bend to start at the end of the fades and increase toward the tips. There is info on my site. Jawge
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Offline dinorocks

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Re: Hophornbeam bow making questions
« Reply #2 on: April 05, 2011, 10:16:00 PM »
Thanks for your reply Jawge!  Regarding bow dimensions, I have a 26 inch draw and looking to make a longer bow..not sure how I should plan the bow.  I recently made a cherry bow with wide limbs...my osage has much narrower limbs...not sure where HHB fits in.

Thanks again!

Dino
"Speedy arrow, sharp and narrow."  GD

Offline okie64

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Re: Hophornbeam bow making questions
« Reply #3 on: April 05, 2011, 10:30:00 PM »
4. I think its just a matter of your preference on which style. I've never worked HHB but I think it will work for either style bow. I prefer longer bows too, I would do an elb style(long and lean), but thats just me.

Offline scrub-buster

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Re: Hophornbeam bow making questions
« Reply #4 on: April 05, 2011, 11:20:00 PM »
HHB is a very good bow wood.  It is one of the best white woods.  I tried recurving the tips on a dry stave with a heat gun and they cracked.  Next time, I will try steam.  My favorite shooting bow is from HHB.  I made it just a little wider than osage.  It is very light in the hand, and smooth to shoot.  Like Jawge said, remove the bark and cambium layer and there is the back of your bow.
AKA Osage Outlaw

Online Pat B

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Re: Hophornbeam bow making questions
« Reply #5 on: April 06, 2011, 12:06:00 AM »
HHB makes great bows. Wait for the leaves to come out. When you cut it then the bark will peel off to expose your back...and a better back than you can make so no other backing is needed. HHB works similar to hickory.    If you want to recurve the tips, do this while green and use steam. If you only want to reflex the tips a bit wait until dry and use a heat gun. For 45# to 50#@26" you could go 66" but 68 will be fine too.
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Offline dinorocks

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Re: Hophornbeam bow making questions
« Reply #6 on: April 06, 2011, 03:01:00 PM »
Thanks for all the answers to my questions.  Regarding my question #4, if it is not too much trouble, can you post some tried and true HHB bow width measurements of handle, between handle and fade, fade, tip, as well as the distance from fade to where the limb starts to taper to the tip?  I would greatly appreciate any help as I do not have too much experience yet.  For the couple Osage bows I have made, I have been using the dimensions from an Osage bow blank Gary Davis (Rattlestick bows) gave me.  The blank was mailed to me with my address and postage taped to the handle...no box, wrapping, etc...good stuff!...tough wood!

Thanks!

Dino
"Speedy arrow, sharp and narrow."  GD

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