Cut some Hickory

[Knawbone]

Just cut down a nice little 6to8" Pig Nut Hickory today. I sealed the ends with a few coats of shelac. I guess the next thing to do is split it in quarters and shellac the sides some. I guess I should ask all you guys for the best plan of attack.I was thinking I could steam a couple staves once I rough them down to bend in some reflex and to also help dry them out a little. Does this sound right or do I have to let them dry for a few months with the bark on.Its small ringed of course, but I would think that wouldn't matter so much. Any advice?

[Art B]

First thing I look for is where the heart of the log is located. If centered, then I would half, then quarter. But if the heart is off-center, then I would only use the wood in the center of each half (smaller rings to one half, larger ring to the other half). This will only produce two staves. Staves, where their radial growth ring thickness run from thick to thin, will crook.

You only need to keep the ends sealed with hickory. Sides do not need coated. I've never seen the first check in the backs of hickories.

Best to go ahead and debark, rough your bows out and let them dry down to the proper MC of around 6-8%. Reflexing can be accomplished with dry heat when you're ready........Art

[Knawbone]

Thanks Art B., Do you mean the center dimentionly or center of the dark colored core. Should the dark wood not be used?Also, you say the back doesn't need sealing, and the sides don't need sealing-is that correct?

[Art B]

I'm referring to the very center of the growth rings, the heart of the tree......Art

[StoneAK]

I cut my hickory seal the ends and split the center. I start shaping it out within a week usually.

[George Tsoukalas]

Take off that bark pronto or it will cement itself to the wood. Jawge

[StoneAK]

True it gets glued on there and it is darn near impossible to get off  

[barley40]

I just cut some hickory also. For years I split the log in half and left the bark on a couple months. Then split out the staves to keep from warping ( I've had them to warp if split out too early). I have heard the back would check if the bark is removed too soon. This time I'm experimenting some by taking the bark off some staves immediately and coating it with titebond II and leaving some uncoated. Then I'll know. That bark does come off easy, huh?

[Knawbone]

Thanks everybody, Hey George, what do you mean by pronto, is within too day good. Can't split or debark it until thursday{ tomarrow}

[George Tsoukalas]

That'll do. A few days for it to settle and get used to being indoors is fine. Enjoy.    Jawge

[D]

I thought you had to get the bark off ASAP to keep the worms from eating holes in it.  But thats probably just the warm months.  I know I cut a log probably 8 to 10" through and let it set on the ground for two weeks or so (first log I ever cut) and stripped the bark and it was eat up with worm holes.  Even found some of the worms.  Talked to some people about it and was told that the larve live in the bark.  But I don't know enough about it that could be wrong.

[Knawbone]

D, This was a healthy tree when cut, I suppose you would not want to leave it on the ground for fear of infestation. I'v only found worms in dead or dieing wood, not in live vibrant trees.I believe that once the tree starts to die the bark starts to separate from the wood which allows for infestation.

[D]

Hum that makes sence.  I cut the tree down but doesn't mean anything it was fall and the leaves were already off.  The wood looked good when I cut it though. but oh well I needed some firewood anyway.  I've cut two or three more sence then and got the bark off after a day or so and have had no more problems with the little terds.

[George Tsoukalas]

Off the ground and inside out of the weather is what I would do. The bark can be drawknifed off but be careful sso as not to damage the back, D. Jawge

[George Tsoukalas]

Off the ground and inside out of the weather is what I would do. The bark can be drawnkifed off but be careful sso as not to damage the back, D. Jawge