Author Topic: propellor correction  (Read 423 times)

Offline Knawbone

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propellor correction
« on: April 15, 2011, 09:20:00 PM »
Can twist be corrected on a hickory stave?If so is it better to straighten it with steam while its wet?
HHA 5 lam Cheetah 65" 48@26
HHA W Special 66" 52@26
HHA W Special 68" 56@28
GN Bushbow 64" 56@29
21st Street Chinook 64" 58@28
Kota Prarie Nomad 60" 47@24
You can do a lot of things when you have too W S Butler My Grandfather

Offline George Tsoukalas

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Re: propellor correction
« Reply #1 on: April 15, 2011, 09:25:00 PM »
Yes, use steam. Don't use dry heat on wet wood. It will crack as the water tries to escape. Jawge

Offline PEARL DRUMS

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Re: propellor correction
« Reply #2 on: April 15, 2011, 10:25:00 PM »
Im going to try to get mine floor tillered and then use dry heat and a caul to correct it. Its not wet, but not fully dry either.

Offline Knawbone

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Re: propellor correction
« Reply #3 on: April 15, 2011, 11:40:00 PM »
Thanks George and Pearl, I guess I didnt word that quite right. I was wondering what would be better, To straighten it while its wet or wait and do it when its dry.It would seem to me it would undo its tention memory better to do it with steam while the wood fibers are flexable. Seems like it would want to go back to its original shape after dry heat.Is my thinking correct?     :dunno:
HHA 5 lam Cheetah 65" 48@26
HHA W Special 66" 52@26
HHA W Special 68" 56@28
GN Bushbow 64" 56@29
21st Street Chinook 64" 58@28
Kota Prarie Nomad 60" 47@24
You can do a lot of things when you have too W S Butler My Grandfather

Offline Art B

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Re: propellor correction
« Reply #4 on: April 16, 2011, 07:07:00 AM »
Some corrections, like knots and really severe bends are best done with steam. But most can be done with heat once you get your bow bending.

Just my opinion, but if you can't use dry heat to make corrections, you shouldn't be bending the limbs anyhow. Stream corrections should be made before you start bending the bow and use only heat after that. Or at least that's my course of action.

A lot of times, corrections you previously made, will back off as wood is removed. Very commom to have to make multiple corrections as you tiller out the bow.....Art

Offline George Tsoukalas

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Re: propellor correction
« Reply #5 on: April 16, 2011, 08:52:00 AM »
Again dry heat should not be used on wet wood. I never tried this method on hickory. This is osage in the pic which corrects easily. This method worked for me the last time I felt compelled to remove a twist which I only do if they are severe (>40 degrees). You'll need 2 milk jugs, cord, adjustable wrench or pipe wrench, funnel, heat gun, and water. Attach the wrench to the twisted area. Tie on the cord to wrench and jug. Pour in a small amount of water. Perhaps a cup or so. Begin to heat the area. When the wood is ready to correct, it will begin bending automatically usually after 10 mins. or so. Go a bit past the point you want  to allow for some wood recovery. Add more water as needed but don't overdo. Jawge
 

Offline George Tsoukalas

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Re: propellor correction
« Reply #6 on: April 16, 2011, 08:53:00 AM »
I like the adj wrench because the jaws are smooth and less damaging to the wood. If you protect the wood with a rag it may ignite.

Offline George Tsoukalas

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Re: propellor correction
« Reply #7 on: April 16, 2011, 08:58:00 AM »
Knawbone, honestly  I don't think it matters either way may work. I haven't had much success with dry  heat correcting or steam correcting hickory. I don't usually bother unless the correction is really needed. Jawge

Offline Knawbone

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Re: propellor correction
« Reply #8 on: April 16, 2011, 09:24:00 AM »
Thanks again George and Art
HHA 5 lam Cheetah 65" 48@26
HHA W Special 66" 52@26
HHA W Special 68" 56@28
GN Bushbow 64" 56@29
21st Street Chinook 64" 58@28
Kota Prarie Nomad 60" 47@24
You can do a lot of things when you have too W S Butler My Grandfather

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