Band saw blade options

[Don Armstrong]

Was sawing a riser out the other day. Went thru 3 layers of glass on one side. Got to the other side and about 1/4" into the glass, BOOM, blade exploded. Lucky I had an old one to finish up. From now on, I'll cut the glass with a hack saw blade but now need some blades. Bought an Olson at Woodcrafters but they are a little pricy. They had Timberwolf for about 28.00, twice the price of the Olson, I think. Need some good blades but not carbide. Are the Timberwolf worth the extra and if so where should I get them. Thanks, Don

[Ranger44]

I've used Timberwolf blades with very good success and they are good blades and last a long time.  I know others here have mentioned them also but I haven't purchased one for a long time and don't remember where I got them.  I am just returning to using my wood working tools after a long time away from them.

[7 Lakes]

This may sound dumb but here's what I do.  When my good blade starts dulling it turns into my "glass" cutting blade.  I then put on a new one for lamination cutting etc...  So far I haven't found a blade that will cut glass and then cut anything else.

[JamesV]

Don't try this. I ran a riser thru my planer and the glass destroyed a new set of blades. Dummy me.

James.................

[John Scifres]

suffolkmachinery.com  about $20 per blade

[Ranger44]

That's the place John!

[jess stuart]

I try to never let my blade come in contact with glass.  I try and make as many of the cuts as possible before the glass goes on.  JamesV I feel you pain did the same with my joiner, the knives didn't like the glass at all.

[Mt. Clemens Bowyer]

Timberwolf blades are available from "Woodcraft" stores, and I think they have many locations nationwide.

 In the matter of fiberglass dulling blades, I was thinking about the possibility of first cutting through the glass very carefully with a dremmal type blade, then cutting the rest of the way through with the bandsaw. Has anyone out there ever tried this?. Maybe it would be to difficult.    John

[Don Armstrong]

I saw them at Woodcrafters but they are a little pricey, IMO. I can save about 9.00 a blade at suffolkmachinery.com, thanks to John. I'm going to try a tool that holds a hack saw blade for the glass. I have seen them but don't know what they are called. Don

[kennym]

Glass is the #1 bladekiller here. I rarely ever cut glass with the bandsaw and when I do,I only cut with carbide and can't get much glass cut before it dulls it down!

I just try to avoid it altogether.

[mater]

If you build many bows, it would pay for itself to get a metal cutting bandsaw. I can cut a hundred bow limbs with one blade. The small horizonal-vertical saws will work, and can be had for about $200.oo

    Mark

[Living_waters]

I have a 12 inch Craftsman and lenox makes a 1/2 bi metal blade for about 30 bucks, it will cut a years worth of bows easy. Save your good blade for wood. A dull wood blade will walk if your saw skills are like mine, a sharp metal blade won't.

[ryguy24000]

Was wondering if a blade like this would work well with glass.  My bandsaw is two speed.  Low speed with a slow feed rate.

[ryguy24000]

check this out.  might be good for glass?

 http://www.bandsawbladesdirect.com/index.php/cPath/21_31

[stringstretcher]

I know of one guy that has one of the grinding wheels for his table saw, and he does a lot of glass bows and uses that to cut the outline out and has never had a problem with it hurting the glass. It is a thin wheel like you see on a metal cut off saw.

[Robertfishes]

I have used the same carbide blade to cut out 13 risers.saw is a craftsman 12 inch i got for $50 Craigslist ! Like Kenny said it ain't as sharp as new but it still cuts good..I paid about $125 for the blade from bandsawbladesinc. I have another bandsaw set up without the carbide for wood only.

[Robertfishes]

I use a belt sander with a 50 grit belt to grind limbs almost to the line, works great, I feel its safer than using a saw and it is fast too

[Glunt]

This last bow I cut out the riser stopping just before the glass accents coming in from both sides, then finished the cut through the glass with a hacksaw blade.  After glue-up, I ground the limbs to profile with 40 grit.  You need to stop a little early and use something finer for the last  1/16th.

I did use an old blade on the bandsaw to cut out the sight window.

Going through a blade per bow was breaking the budget.

I like the idea a of cheap saw set-up for glass cuts and keeping the main saw set-up for wood.

[Robertfishes]

The craftsman saw was my only saw until a few months ago when I found a like new 1073 grizzly 16inch 2 HP on craigslist..I use the craftsman saw the most right now. I am still buying tapers..i have a few exotic boards that will go thru the grizzly this spring..cocobolo and other woods from south of the states.. like glunt I stop short of the line with the 50 grit belt and switch to a 120 grit for final grinding.