Author Topic: Tillering Osage? w/ UPDATED PICTURES (Read 1172 times)

Loren Holland · « **Reply #20 on:** May 09, 2011, 01:14:00 AM »

you mentioned that one side of the picture was the bottom limb, etc. you also said the bow doesn't sit in the cradle of the tree because of the shelf...
next bow, don't shape the handle or cut a shelf till the end...now you have the flexiblitly to choose either limb for top or bottom instead of losing wait trying to bet a positive tiller if it doesn't come out right, and the handle will still be flat while you tiller
some guys will tell you that how you grip the bow will change the tiller...they are probably right but i would still leave the riser alone till towards the end of tillering...just a suggestion, i have done it that way since reading sam harpers site, and its worked for me

H8nonCubs · « **Reply #21 on:** May 09, 2011, 04:43:00 PM »

Good points guys. A good flat handle section saves a lot of frustration tryin to get the dang bow flat and level for tiller. As far as the string goes I agree with mark and hova BIG difference between a shorter string and one braced at 1 or 2 inches even. Lookin good to this point keep on truckin!

snag · « **Reply #22 on:** May 09, 2011, 06:58:00 PM »

I put it on a short string and started using the Gizmo some more to see how to even out the curve.
I bought some pipe insulation and laid that in the tiller tree slot which holds the bow real nice now. This picture is after sanding the outer 1/3 of the right (upper) limb. That left (lower) limb is not looking good out from the fades...hingy. But I don't know what to do at this point...? Should I do some sanding on the fades of the right limb and keep sanding on the outer 1/3 of that limb?

okie64 · « **Reply #23 on:** May 09, 2011, 10:49:00 PM »

The right limb looks stronger but it is bending pretty good. The left looks like it needs more bend in the outer half(not a lot). If it were me I would take a few full length swipes off the right limb and check it on the tree again.

SEMO_HUNTER · « **Reply #24 on:** May 09, 2011, 11:16:00 PM »

I think it's looking good David. Just get that right limb bending a little more by working it down evenly with a palm sander. Don't isolate any particular areas, just work it evenly to get about another inch or so bend in it. Then post another pic for us to look at.

snag · « **Reply #25 on:** May 10, 2011, 12:46:00 AM »

Will do. Thanks, David

snag · « **Reply #26 on:** May 10, 2011, 10:20:00 AM »

I did some more sanding on the right limb before work...work keeps getting in the way of the good stuff! haha
What do you think? The Gizmo showed a high spot about a foot out from the right fade so I worked on that a little too.

SEMO_HUNTER · « **Reply #27 on:** May 10, 2011, 04:29:00 PM »

That looks good David, I would stop there and do some shooting with it before going any further.
See how it shoots cause you may want to make adjustments to it based on that. I always seem to make a few after shooting before I call it good to go.
How much longer is the right limb than the left limb? If you have tuning problems and can't get the arrows to flight straight, you may try nipping a little off the right limb? I would definitely see how it shoots first though.
I had to trim about 3/4" off my bottom limb on the bow I just built cause it was a wee bit too long and just that little bit made everything fall into sync, now it shoots darts.

snag · « **Reply #28 on:** May 10, 2011, 04:41:00 PM »

Thanks Semo. The right limb is 1" longer. I put tip overlays on the tips...so I hope I wouldn't have to cut it down! But if I need to I would.
How do you tell by shooting it that you need to make adjustments?

SEMO_HUNTER · « **Reply #29 on:** May 10, 2011, 04:56:00 PM »

Well, mine actually felt like the bottom limb was weak and no matter what I did I couldn't get good arrow flight. I took some more measurements and realized that I had cut my arrow shelf in a good 2" above center, plus the bottom limb was much longer than the top limb. I just made a decision to even it out a little by nipping 3/4" off the bottom limb tip. A bit of fine tuning and arrows tuned quite easily.

I don't know how to explain it in technical terms but it just felt like what I needed to do and it worked. Now my arrow shelf is about 1 1/2" above center, and I have a slightly positive tiller on the bottom limb.

That's why lots of guys recommend saving the riser finishing for last, in my case I got a little ahead of myself.

I'm not saying that you will need to do that, I hope it shoots great for ya. It will probably depend on where your arrow shelf is in relationship to the limb tips, if your about 1" above center you will probably be fine, even 1 1/2" will usually work fine. Alot of different variables will come into play on how well an arrow tunes from the bow.

snag · « **Reply #30 on:** May 10, 2011, 05:17:00 PM »

..."I got a little ahead of myself." hmmm, sounds very familiar! haha

PEARL DRUMS · « **Reply #31 on:** May 10, 2011, 05:22:00 PM »

Looks like a bow that will shoot to me David. I agree with Chris, fling a bunch of arrows for a few days and be sure the tiller stays put. Nice work!

snag · « **Reply #32 on:** May 10, 2011, 10:14:00 PM »

Well it shoots good and surprisingly fast. Wow! I think it's a bow!

Mark Smeltzer · « **Reply #33 on:** May 10, 2011, 10:21:00 PM »

I think it looks pretty darn good. Great job.

Mark

okie64 · « **Reply #34 on:** May 10, 2011, 10:38:00 PM »

Looks great! What kind of poundage did you end up with?

Mark Smeltzer · « **Reply #35 on:** May 11, 2011, 08:19:00 AM »

I know the other guys mentioned leaving the handle area flat so it sits in the tree better, one other thing I do the last few inches of tillering is to have a family member take a picture of me at full draw. The pressures are different than they are on the tree.
Mark

snag · « **Reply #36 on:** May 11, 2011, 08:21:00 PM »

Okie, it ended up at 55#@28". Just right! Got lucky.

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