Site window Help?

[Colorado Joe]

How does one determine the handle design and where the site window should go?
I am currently working on a Hickory backed Ipe, with Zebra and Ipe handle. Just doing a straight longbow with it. Figured it would be an easy build.

[red hill]

Joe, most of what I've read suggests the arrow pass should be 3/4" to 1 1/4" above the center line. It seems to be what the bowyer prefers. Some arrow shelves are cut to center of the handle, some slightly passed center. That seems to depend on how deep the handle is from back to belly of the bow. I've cut arrow passes from 1/4" to 1/2" in a few different bows. I've had the best luck with now arrow pass cut into the handle.  You can glue a rigid arrow rest on the handle or make a floppy rest using leather.  I've done both.  My favorite so far is a piece of anlter cut and sanded into a triangular piece which was glued to my hickory bow. I then glued the fuzzy portion of velcro on the top of the rest. Worked very well. I asked for suggestions on whether to cut a pass or not on my trade bow. The "no pass" made the 'cut'!
Hope my 'if's and 'or's help.
  :p  
Stan

[bigcountry]

I have been positioning the arrow pass 1" over the center of the handle, and make the top limb 1.5" or less longer than the bottom.

I basically account for 4" handle to hold onto, 1.75" to 2" fades, and 2" cutout.

[Colorado Joe]

Ok so from what I gather I should use what feels right. Also from the pics I will post, Center should be approx where I would grip the bow in the V between thumb and forefinger?

[Colorado Joe]

[bigcountry]

I wish some of the experts would chime in, at least to give me confidense, I am not giving out bum info.  For me, a relative newbie, I keep the handle blocky until I get close to a finished tiller or close to 26".  I won't layout the handle or sight window until then.

But I simply account for 2" of fade on each side, 4" of handle, and 2" of sight window.  That will make the center of the handle 4" from the bottom limb, and 6" from the top limb, but most of the pressure of the way I hold a bow will be 1" above the handle center.

[SEMO_HUNTER]

Originally posted by Colorado Joe:
Ok so from what I gather I should use what feels right. Also from the pics I will post, Center should be approx where I would grip the bow in the V between thumb and forefinger?

That's a good start Joe, right dead center of the bow is where the web of my bow hand goes or as close to it as possible. That's where I want to grip the bow, then about 1" or so above your knuckle is a good place for the arrow shelf. The actual cut out can taper up from there, but I wouldn't go too far up past the fade on the upper limb. Your only looking for enough cut out for the fletching to clear. As far as depth, since you have a laminated handle you can cut that one to center without any problems. If it were a selfbow from a single stave you would want to stay about 1/8" to 1/4" away from center for strength issues.

This might help.

 

Then for the actual arrow rest or cushion I should say, I really like the self adhesive velcro. I use the soft part and not the bristly part. Just wipe the riser with some alcohol after it's finished and stick the soft side velcro wherever you like it. It's durable, quiet, extremely simple, and cheap.

 

Here's a couple more pics of the riser/handle area before it was all finished.

 

Temporary white velcro used when I was still in the tillering and tuning stages. Then I just ripped that one off and threw it away.
Hope this helps.


 

[Colorado Joe]

Beautiful,
Thanks for the help.
As I am fairly new and with the wealth of research available online it seems that there is not much talk on site windows and their contribution to accuracy and all the infinite details that go with the window. Either that or I have not found the right resources. At least with the free online info.
 I am currently marking the bow for the initial rough cuts and am curious as to what people would use for measurements on blanks that are
72"    long
1 1/4" wide
15/16" thick
2 3/8" thick at the handle.
10" long handle material
Again it is a hickory backed Ipe with Zebra and Ipe handle.
Not sure my target poundage as of yet somewhere between 40 to 55.
Thanks again for your assistance.

[Colorado Joe]

Ok one more thought.

Would it be ok to glue a Birdseye maple veneer over my hickory back for looks? Something I can sand down on the edges so the Hickory frames the maple.

[bigcountry]

Whatever you glue down over your backing becomes the backing.  Remember the top 10% holds over 50% of the tension.

[Colorado Joe]

72" long
1 1/4" wide
15/16" thick
2 3/8" thick at the handle.
10" long handle material

With those measurements I think I will try 1/2 by 1/2 at the tips  with the taper coming 5" from center.
Unless I should go thinner taper?

Any recommendations would be much appreciated.

[Colorado Joe]

Rough cut done!
I was told today that I should have heat treated the glue process Backing an ipe with hickory, I wrapped tight with plastic wrap and clamped. I used EA 40 smooth on for the backing is there a trick to re treating or setting the glue so its stronger and won't de-laminate. Or would it be ok since its Bow #1?