I really hate plastic wrap!

[Don Armstrong]

Is there an alternative to plastic wrap when gluing up glass bows. I am using the Great Value brand from wally world. It works but is not user frindly       . It may just be me, but it clings to everything, I don't want it to. It's better than gluing your bow to the form but I hate the stuff. Don

[kennym]

I've thought of trying plastic like you cover stuff with or put under concrete. If it wrinkled, it would prob show on the limb tho....

[Bodork]

I occasionally put a thin layer of automotive wax on my bottom forms and go down the sides three or four inches before I put the plastic wrap on. One time, I forgot the plastic wrap and the bow still came right off of the form. I wash my hands with wax and grease remover before I start applying the epoxy to the lams.  I don't want wax on or in the epoxy.

[D]

Ya know I just put a bow in the form and as I was seperating and seperating and seperating the wrap I was thinking the same thing.  I guess you could use a thicker plastic like painter dropcloth or something but Kenny is right a wrinkle would probably show up but I guess you could tape it down smooth.  My biggest fear is that some of the wrap will get trapped between the lams and glued in.  Never thought about putting wax on the form.  Anybody ever tried spraying it down with Pam or something similar?

[Badwithabow]

Well i'm by no means an expert but I wrestled with that wrap the same way and i sweated the same thing always worried about it getting in the lams... but unless you just aren't payin attention i doubt enough will get in there to mess ya up i mean look at how much you trim off.... just my .02 i just lay my piece down then put a 2nd piece over the bow when ready to pressurize it.

[Walt Francis]

I bought the big industrial roll of plastic wrap from Costco and sit it on the end of the bench, at the end of the form.  I makes it easy to pull out and place as many layers as you need without it messing up.

[Trux Turning]

I use the same plastic wrap from Wally world and use floor paste wax on my form. The plastic sticks to the wax on the form and stays put.

[red hill]

This afternoon I used clear packing tape to cover a flat form to glue a backing to a board bow. It has great adherence on the sticky side and is super slick on the back. I'm hoping it will peel away easily tomorrow.
I've used the "saran wrap" type plastic as well but I don't care for it.
Perhaps there is a brand that doesn't have the static cling business going on.    
Stan

[Robertfishes]

Big Jim says he uses some kind of "shrink wrap" on his forms. I use turtle wax (car wax)on the form surface and sides and the thinnist plastic painters drop cloth that Lowes sells.. I think it's 2 mills thick?

[Cambow]

The best thing I ever did was take the time to carefully cut the roll in half with a utility knife. It is much easier to deal with when it is only about five inches wide instead of ten. The first time I tried this.. I cut it with my band saw... bad idea! It melts the ends together and then it wont unroll easily. Just my 2 cents... I like the narrower material...

[bjansen]

I use shrink wrap on my forms.  I get it from harbor freight, but it can also be purchased at walmart and I am sure other places.  Just wrap the form up real tight, top and bottom.  Then just cut it off after the glue up.  It is a much better alternative to trying to lay down a sheet on top of the form.

[Don Armstrong]

Brad, that's a great idea. I can see how that will solve most of my issues. I would never have thought to wrap the form. Thanks, Don

[**DONOTDELETE**]

The absolute best thing to do is don't use any plastic at all....

if you wax your forms and pressure strips good, and be careful when you are applying your bow snot, you don't need plastic or masking tape on your limbs or anything....

just wipe the glass clean with a thinner rag, and put it in your forms..... as you air up slowly.... wipe the squeeze out off with paper towels..... you can see exactly what is happening too.... if something slips or goes sideways on you, just deflate and adjust it......

the best part about this meathod is that you ave very little epoxy to grind off the edges of your limbs when she's cured out.

you don't need no stinking plastic.  

[canopyboy]

I've been using pallet wrap.  Seems to come off easily for me.

[2treks]

6" stretch wrap works good for me. I put one piece down on the form and tape it down.Stretch it and you get no wrinkles. Lay in the glue up and tape it in then another piece of stretch wrap. If your glue up is taped down snug you will have a hard time getting the plastic in between the lams. If the plastic wrap comes off with the bow,and it will,just peel it of and toss it.no biggie. As Kirk said watch how(much) epoxy you use and air up slow. Works great for me(almost everytime)

[jess stuart]

I like Kirks method, it makes sense and has several advantages.  Still I just can't bring myself to trying it with no wrap.  What can I say he is the master and I am still grasshopper.

[Dick in Seattle]

I quit using plastic wrap or shrink wrap... hate the stuff.   I buy plastic painter drop sheets at Lowe's... thinnest, cheapest ones.   They aren't stretchy and full of cling static.    I open it up as little as possible to figure the layout, then fold it up so that if you start cutting 6" strips off the end of the roll, they're about 7' long.   I use a quilter's roller cutter and slice a whole bunch of those ribbons off and stash 'em in my glue closet, unroll 'em and put 'em on the form as needed.   They're a little opaque, rather than clear like the shrink, but man, what a difference in handing them.

[JamesV]

Am I the only person that wraps the bow tightly with streach wrap after glue-up. I double wrap as tight as possible without breaking the wrap.It holds all the lams in place and after grinding the edges it is easy to remove. Remember to cover the glass with masking tape.