A few experiements I've tried this year.

[Mike Mecredy]

First I'm not sure without getting into my books how many bows I made this year.  but it's been a bunch.
One of the things I've found when it pertains to longbows, D/R, Hill styled or otherwise, is narrow and thick, is faster than wide and thin.  Some of you may already known this, but for me it's a eye opener.  The longbows I used to make nearly 1 1/2" wide at the fades I now make around 1 1/8" at the fades and the difference is easily noticable to the naked eye.  I don't have chrono-ma-jiggers, but it's obvious.  Length is also a factor, hard to explain but "a little too long" is faster than a "little too short".  For instance the same d/r design, same wieght give or take a pound from each other, the longbow 67" long is faster than the longbow 63" long. (with the same arrow)  Again just what I can tell by shooting them, I didn't precision measure them.  

Wanted to share.

[JamesV]

Mike........

Something I have noticed and would like for you to comment on is the effect that taper rate has on bow design. The R/D form I am currently using works better with a faster taper rate. .004 per inch. The bow draws smoother, the tips don't turn over and the bow is quiet and fast. Also my bows are 1 1/8th at the fades.

James

[k-hat]

Interesting.  I would think that the longer are faster because there is less tip deflection, therefore the limbs don't have to travel as far recovering from the same draw length.  If i understand the mass principle, both limbs (slightly longer and slightly shorter) would have close enough to the same mass where it wouldn't offset the shorter distance.  Of course maybe brace height would play a role in that as well.

Just my 2 cents;)  Thanks for sharing:)

[Mike Mecredy]

K-hat you nailed it. The long limbs straighten out faster with less movment.  (O.L. Adcock tried to explain that to me once, and he was right, I had to see for myself though, instead of taking the word of the longbow "Yoda")
 
James, I haven't played with taper rates, but I make all my own lams and that's something I'll play with this year.  I usually use a .0015 per inch.  on longbows and a .002 for recurves.  I think this year I'll made some sleds with a more aggressive taper rate and play with that and see what happens.

[monterey]

I too have observed this narrower is faster thing.  It makes sense given that at an equal draw weight, the narrower thicker limb will have less mass.

Trying to get my head around the taper thing.  What is coming through is that faster taper will result in more bend at the tips which will result in more limb travel.  Could be offset with a wider limb toward the tips, but that would be going backwards toward a wider limb and more mass??

[red hill]

On the more aggressive taper, are you talking about belly/back tapering? Or side tapering from fades to tips?
I don't know diddly about laminations.  

[Mike Mecredy]

What I was thinking on doing with my tapers as far a longbows go, belly to back that is, is having them at a .002 / inch and then the last 8 - 10 inches or so at the tip, have them thicken back out a bit so the tips are stiffer than mid limb.  I like to keep the side to side taper the way I've been doing it and I really couldn't tell the rate per inch on it.  I just do it until it looks right and tillers right.

[JamesV]

Mike...........

In my limited experments with tapers, I have found that the more reflex you have in the tips the more taper you need to get the whole limb working but keeping the tips stiff at the same time. If it is not balanced your performance will suffer. Your thinking is exactly right, but instead of using a thicker limb tip as you suggested I use the reflex to keep the tip stiffer and it also helps with limb mass.

James

[Mike Mecredy]

All my longbow forms I normally use are d/r design.  But after making them the same for so long, I like to keep experimenting.  As for balance,  I make one peice seamless tapers and always measure thickness at given lengths and points on each side, and make sure each one bends evenly before I even glue it up.