Author Topic: tri-lam longbow  (Read 384 times)

Offline tishtail

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tri-lam longbow
« on: March 15, 2012, 03:20:00 PM »
i'm making a tri-lam bow for the first time wanted to know if it matters if i glue up the bamboo back to the bamboo center first let cure, this would be a flat glue up[flat form] then glue up the osage belly on a r/d form with the bamboo  or do i just do it all at one time to get the correct r/d with all lams. thanks LjT

Offline eflanders

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Re: tri-lam longbow
« Reply #1 on: March 15, 2012, 10:11:00 PM »
On all of the all-wood laminated bows I've built whether flat or R/D, I've always glued up all of the main lams at once.  I have never worked with glass.  Overlays whether on the tips or the riser I have always added after gluing the body of the bow together.

Offline tishtail

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Re: tri-lam longbow
« Reply #2 on: March 17, 2012, 07:48:00 AM »
thanks foe the reply i also havenot worked with glass before this is all wood and bamboo i thought if i could glue up the bamboo first it mite help with glue work time and just moving all lams in a neat order less mess maybe i'll try just as learning curve glueing up bamboo first then cure then belly wood and then into r/d press well thanks again where in kewaskum do you live i live in augusta wisc. i came from milwaukee don't miss it at all less stress. LjT

Online wood carver 2

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Re: tri-lam longbow
« Reply #3 on: March 17, 2012, 07:12:00 PM »
If you are using Urac or Titebond glue, you should have plenty of time to glue up the whole bow at once. Do a dry run, then lay out all the parts in order, and spread your glue with a small brush. As long as it's not really hot and dry, the glue won't set up before you're ready to clamp it.
Dave.
" Vegetarian" another word for bad hunter.

Offline eflanders

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Re: tri-lam longbow
« Reply #4 on: March 18, 2012, 10:57:00 AM »
Gluing the parts together in the form is what gives the bow it's shape.  It is nearly impossible to give a glued-up bow any shape after it has been glued together.  (Steam and heat can be used to shape wood pieces but they also will cause the glue to release.)

I use Urac 185 glue as this gives me the longest working time and it also is a gap-filling type glue.  This means it is a bit more forgiving when it comes to fitting the pieces together. The lams are then placed onto the R/D form to cure into the desired shape.  Urac will cure at room temperature provided you give it enough time.  

I usually let my lams cure in the form for 48 hours or more at room temperature.  A slow lower temp cure I was told was also a stronger bond by the folks who make Urac.  But to be candid, I have never heard of anyone having a bond issue when using Urac regardless of the temp they cured their project with and I know a lot of folks who use a hot box to speed up the cure time. WC2 is spot-on in that you want to do a dry run of your fit up before actually gluing the parts together.  You will often find some things that need some tweaking this way.

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