Cocobolo experts: do you wipe down with acetone?

[Tron]

I've heard of bows coming apart because the oils won't let the glue adhere properly.  But I've also had people tell me not to wipe down any woods with acetone.  What's the scoop?  What do you you guys do?

[strungstick]

To wipe or not to wipe......
I'm a wiper, cause it only makes sense to me, but to each their own.  I've yet to have a limb come apart however.  With many of the exotics I put the lams in the oven while it is preheating and bring them up to curing temp before wiping them down.  I'll put the smooth on in there for a few mintues as well to make it spread easier.

[Stiks-n-Strings]

acetone causes more oil to come to surface. I don't build glass bow but I do build trilams and a few bbo's. I usually wipe it with denatured alcohol.

[Bowjunkie]

Acetone leaves a residue behind. If you're going to wipe it down, do it with denatured alcohol and do it until the rags are coming off clean... or cleanER. Sometimes, it seems it just never quits coming out.

[Tron]

Thanks for the advice guys

[jsweka]

I don't think there's a right or wrong way on this one.  Some wipe with acetone, some don't.  I'm a wiper and haven't had any problems with glue holding on oily woods (bacote & cocobolo).

[soy]

I talked with someone at birchwood casey(tru oil) and was i surprised when they told me that accitone has oil in it...have been using ot to prep wood for joining for a while and have not had any problems but i am now going to be using denatured alcohol. I have had problems not wiping oily wood for joining

[Walt Francis]

I used to be a wiper with both acetone and then denatured alcohol, never had any problems.  I always wiped until the wood oils quit staining the rags.  A couple of years back I started applying the glue brushing the glueing surfaces off and haven't had any problems.

For those  who are still using Acetone, try denatured alcohol, the fumes are not as toxic, it is easier on the skin, and the chance of spontaneous combustion of used rags is a lot less.

[BigJim]

Contrary to popular belief, most of the problems experienced with the so called "oily" woods are not due to the oils.

These woods are also very difficult to dry, or buy dry and unless you purchase them in 4/4's, won't be kiln dried.

Moisture meters are great for checking MC, but unless you have one that will allow you to adjust for different densities, it is merely a shot in the dark.

Why do you think it is that a few people have problems with oily woods yet other bowyers have been using them trouble free for many many years.

Veneers aren't too much of a problem since they will go from 12% MC or more to 8% in just a week or two (after they have been cut thin).

By the way, I use a brush on wood.

BIgJim