Author Topic: Tools for Lam Bow Build?  (Read 327 times)

Offline Whitetail Chaser

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Tools for Lam Bow Build?
« on: August 21, 2012, 03:20:00 PM »
I have heard that the spindle/belt sander combo by Rigid is pretty good for bow building, but it is also $200 at my local Home Depot.

I would like to have good stuff to work on my first bow with, so I'm considering a disc sander conversion for my table saw.  

If I combine that with some drill-mounted sanding drums, can I finish out a bow that doesn't look like it has 5000 tool marks in it?

Please be advised that my woodworking skills are slightly better than a below-average chimpanzee.

Let me know what you guys think.  Hope to be finishing my form this weekend and laminating within a month or so. This is a really slow process for me, and my patience is really being tested.  I already have plans for my second riser build for my first set of limbs.


Thanks.

Brett
50# MAX Widow
54# Sapphire Hawk
53# Schafer Silvertip TD
45# Hill Country Bobcat

Offline Glunt

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Re: Tools for Lam Bow Build?
« Reply #1 on: August 21, 2012, 04:11:00 PM »
Yes, but disk or drums aren't great for limb edges.  You need a longer surface to avoid bumps and dips.  I use an old cheapo Harbor Freight belt/disc combo and its about wore out, but it does the job.

Without a belt sander, I would do the limb edges by hand with a long block.  I shaped one riser with drums and a drill press.  It worked ok.  I use a Delta spindle sander now and its much nicer.

Online wood carver 2

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Re: Tools for Lam Bow Build?
« Reply #2 on: August 21, 2012, 06:31:00 PM »
The Rigid is an excellent machine, worth saving up for. If you go the way of a disk on your table saw, I would suggest that you replace the insert that goes into the opening in the table top with a zero clearance insert. You can get them from anyplace that sells saws and accessories, or you can make your own using a good piece of plywood. The idea behind a zero clearance insert is to prevent wood from being pulled down into the gap between the insert and the disk. Shape it to fit the opening, using the original as a template. It will likely need shimming to make it flush with the surface. You can glue small bits of wood to the underside until it's flush. A small nail driven halfway into the end that faces away from you when sawing will stop it from rising up due to the rotation of the blade (sanding disk).
Cutting the slot can be done by lowering the saw blade all the way, then placing the insert into the opening and firmly clamping it down at both ends so the blade can't touch the clamps when you raise it. As you carefully raise the blade, it will cut a slot in the insert. Just stop when the slot is big enough. You may have to widen the slot some. You want it close to the disk, but not touching.
If you're not comfortable making your own insert, it may be worth buying one. They're not too pricy.
I hope this helps and if you have any questions, I'll do my best to answer.
Dave.
" Vegetarian" another word for bad hunter.

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