New to building; recurve questions

[bdsmith1]

Hey guys,

So I'm new to this, and recently got my form built and ready to go.  I got my materials on Saturday to begin my build(big shout out to Kennym!).  I'm stuck right now because I'm having issues getting the riser block to fit snugly enough with no gaps where I can see light through the curve of the handle.  Its perfect now except for about an inch from the left side.  I have tried so much to get the block perfect, but I keep messing up other spots when I try to take it all down except for that one spot.  Since this spot is towards the end of the riser handle, can I just leave the small gap?  The wood there will be paper thin, so I'm assuming that small portion will bend to the lams when I clamp it right?  If not, does anyone have any method that works well for sanding these riserblocks to perfection?  My biggest pit fall with it is trying to stick the tapered lams in every time I check for gaps.  They don't want to stay together when I press on them, and even though I've bevelled the end past 45 degrees, superglue won't hold them together, it just pops loose.  Should I use EA 40 Smooth on to hold them?  Can anyone walk me through there method for sanding the riser block in a recurve?  the jig I'm using is from SwissBows.com from the 52 inch build. Any tips or tricks would be much appreciated

Thanks,

Brian S
Athens Ga

[Millhimes]

Bdsmith,The only way i can get an end of a riser to set down tight is to put it on the form about 1/4" in from the edge and level it so you have the same gap on both ends,then run a sharp pencil along the form to scribe a line starting at one end to match the gap you have.Sounds harder than it is.Hope that makes sense.Good luck---Joe

[Millhimes]

Forgot,sand to the line but you knew that--Joe

[bdsmith1]

Thanks Joe, I will give that a try.  I have just been usng chalk to try and mark the high spots but after a full day of sanding I still had a lot of spots.  Do you check your gap with the riser clamped down?  I am currently clamping mine so that I can put the tapered end of my lams in so that I can account for them on the form, like they will be at glue up.  I have to clamp them, but that seems to reduce the number of gaps. Is that ok?  I mean I want to do this RIGHT the first time so I don't get a delaminated bow that hurts me or one of my buddies.

Thanks,  

Brian Smith
Athens Ga

[Millhimes]

Brian,no i don't clamp it.I only push down--Joe

[Robertfishes]

If the wood is thin it should bend under pressure, my fades are 1/16 or thinner 1 inch from end.. This is a picture of a dry run..if I saw any gaps at this point then I would sand the riser or fades till I had no visable gaps..gaps = ugly glue lines. make sure to cover the top of form so that you dont get wax on your riser or tapers before glue up, the pic is of a brand new unwaxed form and hose.. I only had masking tape on top of the form, now I use 0.5 mil plastic "drop cloth "on this form during dry runs and glue ups. I have built up a very small gap in the form using masking tape to close a very small gap in riser area.  

[bdsmith1]

I'm actually using the rubber band method.  I have a pressure strip to even out the pressure.  I got everything right with the riser now.  I'm trying to get the tapered lam to glue together in the center now.  I tried two types of super glue and a 1 hour epoxy, but neither worked. It is setting with titebond as we speak to see if that'll hold it, then I'll do a dry run.  I'll post pictures ASAP.

[Millhimes]

Brian,did you scarf the joint for better glue joint?

[talkingcabbage]

I've had trouble with super glue too. If you're gonna use that, you need to put a thin layer of superglue on each lam and let it set up first, then glue them together. The first layer seals the pores so the second will stick them good. And definitely scarf the joint. It makes it less noticable as well as giving you more glue area.

[Furtaker]

I've been using TB III to but join the lams together with great results.

[onemississipp]

Glue your sandpaper to the form place riser in form and make very small movements forward and back.

Forward and back being perpendicular to the form or limbs.