lowering limb weight

[DanielB89]

I am in need of some incite from a more experienced bowyer than myself.  In 2011 I build my first longbow, a R/d T/d longbow that came out a little stronger than i wanted it to, and i would like to lower the draw weight a good bit.  It is ~#65, i would like to take off as much as SAFELY possible.  

the limbs have plenty width to them so i could cut them down some, i could also, trap them hard, etc.  

Any info i greatly appreciated.  

Thanks,
Daniel

[heartlandbowyer]

There are quite a few options that would work. Need more info on the bow, riser length, pad angle, butt width of limbs, tip width. How about a couple pics, what length is it now?

Cory

[jsweka]

When you say you want to lower the draw weight "a good bit", exactly how much do you want to take off?

Welcome to Trad Gang!

[LittleBen]

I'd liek to see how this goes. Pictures please.
 

[DanielB89]

i can't see how to post a pic, can someone help me out.
limb width at butt - 1 1/2"
length of limb - 28 1/2"
width at string groove - 5/8"
Riser is 17"
total length is 66"
(if at all possible, i wouldn't mind shortening it a couple inches because it is long for a tree stand)

[jsweka]

Daniel - Here's a link on how to post pics.

 http://tradgang.com/noncgi/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=129;t=000087

I'd say you got some room to work there and you could probably loose at least 8 lbs (maybe more) by slimming the width of the limbs. I dropped a 1 piece 10 lbs once by slimming the limbs and trapping the back and it held together just fine.  Sand equal amounts off each edge and you could narrow the tips down to 1/2".  I'm no take down expert (only ever built one take down recurve), but it would be wise to keep checking for limb twist as you go. And take it slow.

[DanielB89]

[DanielB89]

John,
hate to say it but the beautiful thing about a take down is if the limbs do end up getting ruined, i can always make some more!  

Would you recommend sanding on them or cutting them?  

Also, how far would you start sanding outside of the wedge?  If i could get #8-10 off, i would be very pleased!  

Thanks for your reply.  

Would you recommend using a belt sander?

[DanielB89]

also, would you see a problem with me shortening them?  I can't decide if i want to shorten the limbs or the riser.  I could always just purchase a $40 kit and shorten the bow to a 1" riser as compared to the 17".

[Robertfishes]

Making the limbs shorter will increase draw weight. To narrow limbs I Put some white masking tape on limbs, mark limb center, make a mark every 2 inches from string groove to end of fade, using a pencil or ultra fine marker make a sanding line on edge of limbs 1/2 wide at tip to zero at end of fades, sand limb edges almost to line, check width at every 2 inch Mark to make sure your even.round edges, refile string grooves..hope this is clear.. I have had a fever and dry cough since yesterday...

[Jim Rocole]

I HAD A BUNCH COME IN OVER WEIGHT WHEN I FIRST STARTED. STILL DO, TO ME I WOULD RATHER HAVE ENOUGH WEIGHT THAN NOT ENOUGH. I HAVE HAD THE BEST LUCK NARROWING THE LIMBS JUST LIKE ROBERT EXPLAINS. BY FAR THE MOST IMPORTANT PART IS THE SANDING LINE. TAKE YOUR TIME AND GET IT PERFECT. ONE OTHER THING IS THAT I USUALLY LEAVE THE TIPS ALONE SO IF I HAVE TO DEEPEN A STRING GROOVE I AM ABLE TO FINE TUNE IT. I USUALLY CLAMP A STRAIGHT EDGE AFTER FINDING THE CENTER LINE FROM AN 1/16-1/8" AT THE TIPS TO 0"AT THE FADEOUT OF THE RISER ON EACH SIDE. SAND IT DOWN CHECK THE WEIGHT AND GO FROM THERE.

[DanielB89]

@Robertfishes - do you sand the tape as well? like leave the tape on while sanding?  I'm getting excited thinking about this little project!    

Thank you for all your info guys!  This is the main reason i joined tradgang!

[Bowjunkie]

Yes, leave the tape on while sanding... the tape is to draw highly visible lines to follow while you work.

When you finally do remove the tape, first be sure you at least slightly knock the corners off the edges with a sanding block or something, then pull the tape slowly at a very low angle, and do so working from handle towards the tip (important). Then work from handle to the other tip. You do this because the limb tapers in width, which violates/cuts through the fibers of the glass and when you remove tape from handle to tip, you're pulling away from those violated fibers, not pulling into and up on them. Going the 'wrong' way, pulling tape off from tips toward the handle makes it much more likely you'll grab those fibers and lift a nasty splinter of glass... which I did... once.

[Robertfishes]

yes,  excellent point Bowjunkie, always pull tape from riser towards tips. I round limb edges with a piece of 3 inch wide by 24 inch long emory cloth sand paper using a "shoe shine" stroke..If I have a lot of material to remove I start with 120 grit and finish off with 240, I buy it from "harbour freight" in 25 ft rolls. Someone else gave me this idea a few years ago on Tradgang..it works very well

[DanielB89]

ok, may i ask a preferred method of sanding?  Would it be by hand? hand held random orbital sander? belt sander?

once again, thanks you a lot for all the help?  

will it matter if i sand all of one side down, and then sand on the other?  will that cause limb to twist at all or am i safe sanding one side down and then proceeding to other?

[onemississipp]

I like a sanding block, at least 6 inches...and a mask.