Author Topic: Bending Ipe  (Read 268 times)

Offline scars

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Bending Ipe
« on: May 12, 2013, 04:24:00 PM »
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Macbow,
The form I made for this is 12"long 2x4 with a 9"radius. I basically copied it on a smaller scale from Pats short bow blog.

I could not find anything on the web about bending ipe so I borrowed a process from the bowyers bibles, the one about making tiny bows to test different woods. Using that as an example I started heating band saw cuttings of Ipe. I think each bow designed with a kick should be tested in this manner.

Bend testing needs to be done according to the type of board bow, backed bow you are making. For example, The slat is cut on a bias grain then the bending test needs to be done the same way. The success of your design will be a little more in your favor.

I have seen three different types of Ipe, the dark walnut, a reddish brown and the yellow. I don't know if they all come from the same tree or if they are different varieties. But the testing eliminates the need to know.

I have two heat guns 1200w and 1500w I use one to keep heat along the length of the bend area and the other one to add heat to the bend as I add C-clamps. Ipe will want to bend in one area till it fractures if you notice it starting to do that then stop and wait for it to cool before moving any farther then continue on. You don't need two guns but it helps.

For less extreme bends to the tip it works smoother if you heat the belly side and use a caul that will clamp on to the belly.

Offline macbow

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Re: Bending Ipe
« Reply #1 on: May 12, 2013, 10:06:00 PM »
Thanks a lot.
When I get back home I'm going to experiment.
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Offline Zradix

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Re: Bending Ipe
« Reply #2 on: May 12, 2013, 11:08:00 PM »
looking forward to seeing more
If some animals are good at hunting and others are suitable for hunting, then the Gods must clearly smile on hunting.~Aristotle

..there's more fun in hunting with the handicap of the bow than there is in hunting with the sureness of the gun.~ F.Bear

Offline scars

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Re: Bending Ipe
« Reply #3 on: May 13, 2013, 12:41:00 AM »
No Macbow Thank you, I am interested in finding out if local climate differences have any bearing on your success. I live 8 miles from the Pacific ocean but I am at 2000 ft above sea level. You live in Missouri and Zradix lives in Michigan. I suspect that local conditions may have something to do with the woods properties. For instance I have had no success with hickory. It cracks or splits if I sneeze with a heat gun in my hand.

Zradix hope you post your results here also.


Good luck on your results. I'll post some smaller tip kicks and handle setbacks once I find my card reader.

Joe

Offline scars

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Re: Bending Ipe
« Reply #4 on: May 13, 2013, 01:37:00 AM »
Here is a ipe slat 1 5/8x 7/16x 66" It is of the red type, the form or caul for the tips gives them a one inch kick over a six inch distance. No oil, Crisco or moisture blocker of any type used. Back set form 4 1/2 inches long arc gives an estimated 7 to 10 degrees of back set. It is ready for pretillering once it has rehydrated.
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Offline LittleBen

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Re: Bending Ipe
« Reply #5 on: May 13, 2013, 08:03:00 AM »
very interesting. I think I need to buy a bunch of Ipe ... this looks like fun.

Offline eflanders

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Re: Bending Ipe
« Reply #6 on: May 13, 2013, 10:06:00 PM »
There are other ways to successfully bend ipe  If the wood is green (not kiln dried), you can steam bend it as well.

Offline scars

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Re: Bending Ipe
« Reply #7 on: May 13, 2013, 11:50:00 PM »
Quote
Originally posted by eflanders:
There are other ways to successfully bend ipe  If the wood is green (not kiln dried), you can steam bend it as well.
Where would I get green ipe?
Or are you saying that ipe that has been air dried not kiln dried can be steamed?
Would the time to steam be to the same as American hardwoods? or better yet minutes to inch of thickness.

I wonder what boiling kiln dried ipe would produce? I have ipe to try that.

Thanks you are making me think.

Joe

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