Board Bow Designs

[Daniel Audette]

I have currently seen 2 different designs for a board bow (long bow design)

Pyramid -  Which I have just recently started
and mollegabet, are there other designs besides these 2? which one is better?  I am just trying to figure this out for my next bow project.  I want to make sure it has at least a 40# draw.  

I still need to figure out my draw length. Without having my first bow finished what is the best way to figure this out?

[k-hat]

The list goes on!  Finish your pyramid then pick one that appeals to you!  I still have not attempted a molly, though i'm itching too.  Just haven't had that piece of wood yet that says "make me a molly", nor have i had the guts     I consider the molly a bit of an advanced bow.  

I've seen two reasonably accurate ways to estimate draw length.  you can assume a drawing position placing your bow hand in a fist against a wall.  measure from wall to your anchor point.

or

Place a yardstick with the zero at the center of your chest and reach out with both hands, fingers pointing and sandwich the yardstick between the hands.  Arms and yardstick should all be in the same horizontal plane, and don't hunch over(back against a wall is helpful).  Where your fingers land is an approximate draw length.    

Try both and that'll get ya started!

[John Scifres]

You can make just about any bow design out of a board.  There is nothing that necessarily separates a board from a stave in that regard.

I highly recommend The Traditional Bowyer's Bible V. I, especially the design chapter to help you think design through.

A Mollegabet is not a board bow design, just a bow design.  You can be sure the originals were not made from boards.

A pyramid lends itself to a board since your thickness is already set for you and, in theory, all you should have to do is cut the profile accurately and the bow will be tillered.

All that said, start with a basic bow design and learn how to remove wood.  Here is a good tutorial on board bows:   http://sticknstring.webs.com/ferretsboardbow.htm

[k-hat]

Good recommendations John, Ferrets boardbow tutorial is what i made my first two from.  very helpful!  I will say that if I remember correctly, the way the steps worked out, it had you draw all your lines for side and front profile, then when you cut one (take your pick!) you end up cutting off the lines you already drew for the other profile   :confused:   .  Easy solution is to draw your front profile lines on the back of the bow, instead of the belly.  Then you can cut/rasp the side profile (thickness), then front profile (width) and you're good to go.    

[Daniel Audette]

Had more time to work on my bow today!!!!

It is starting to look good.  Just started the floor tillering portion.

When I start tillering with the tree any suggestions on the length of long string before going to the proper string.  

With the bow string is Flemish twist or continuous loop better?

[LittleBen]

The tillering string should be an inch or so longer than the bow to start.

Continuous loop and Flemish twist are both fine. Flemish twist requires less equipment if you're making it yourself.

[k-hat]

Beg to differ.  If you're floor tillered correctly, you can (imo should) start with the length of string that will lay tight against the belly (in other words, it oughta require some effort to string it, but will effectively be a zero brace height).  Some even go to a low brace at this point. Any string that is longer than what you would normally brace it with will give a false read on tiller--outers will look stiff and inners will look weak.