Toying with an idea

[Troy D. Breeding]

Normally I want shoot a bow under 62" (recurve).

For some unknown reason I've been toying with the idea of trying to make one alittle shorter.

When I make a 60" bow I only reduce the riser length. On 62" bows I use a 19" riser. For a 60" bow I use the same limb length and a 17" riser. If I pull the 55# limbs off my 62" (19" riser) and put them on a 17" riser I gain on average 5-6#'s in weight.

So far my 62" bows have shown no stack in draw until I pull past 30" and then it's only minumal.

I've shot the 60" bows I've made and they seem fine, but I can feel a slight stack when I pass 28 to 28-1/2" of my 29-1/4" draw.

My idea for a shorter bow is to make one 58".

Now most of you would say just reduce the limb length or the riser length, which ever I feel best with.

Well, I'm thinking about reducing the riser to 13" and increasing the limb length to the ones I would use on the 19" riser for 64" bow.

Does this sound like something that will shootable at my draw length (without a boatload of stack) or just smoke in the wind and something that will only be enjoyable to draw at a shorter draw length?

Troy

[Roy from Pa]

Here we go again. What do they put in the water out there anyway?

[Troy D. Breeding]

Can't say on that one "Minus T". All I know is the idea of a shorter bow shoulds, I say sounds, good in theory for ground blinds.

Troy

[Walt Francis]

Try making a 60" with static tips, it should keep the same string angle as your 62-64" bows and help with the stacking.

[monterey]

How about looking at some shorter designs that draw well for you and figure out why they work well?  Example;  I have a 54" 40# Shakespeare Necedah that does not seem to stack at my 28" draw.  Maybe it would at your 29-1/4".  :confused:    But, based on your exp with your 62" and 60" bows, you might maybe be able to take the Necedah (or other designs you may discover) to a slightly longer riser and end up with the bow you are looking for.

I don't have enough experience with the Kodiak Magnum, but it might be worth a peek into it's design.  

I like Walt's idea too.

Just a few ramblings.  

[Troy D. Breeding]

Walt,

I had thought about try to make a static tipped limb, but know so little about static limbs it's unreal.

Still, it's a good idea and may have to give it a try.

I'm wondering if the static is caused by the smaller radious of the curve or is it something different??????

Troy

[MoeM]

I`m not sure if got all right, but every limb has a static section near the tips. The bigger the total amount of taper (thick-/withness) is, the smaller it will be.
So a recurve limb without taper will be more likely not to move in the curve than his tapered brother.
Another way is a tipwedge; little longer in this case.
I really hope I got your question right^^

[LittleBen]

I believe the static tip is due to a very thin tip wedge between the lams making the tips slightly thicker.

AS a general rule thought more reflex and deflex will give you less stacking.

I think your idea about going 13" for the riser and longer on the limbs is a good idea, it will reduce string angle to some degree and reduce stacking.

Another thing that will reduce string angle is less taper on the lams ... this will cause more bending at the fades and less at the tips.

[Dan Bonner]

I'd shorten the wedges by an inch on each limb and then take about a 6" length of .020-.30" veneer, taper it to zero over the last 2.5" and use it as a tip wedge. It won't make the tips static but they will open up later and less in the draw cycle maintaining a smaller string angle and reducing stacking. That way you won't have to build a new form. I use a 14" riser on my shorties. 13" might get crowded with limb pads, sight window and a place to put your hand.

Bonner

[rollingrock]

The stack on your draw is caused by a number of factors. The short the bow is, the length of riser will usually be shorter. But to balance the length of your bow and draw weight, there're other things you will have to live into. The material you use, the design of reflex/deflex, the distribution of draw weight on the limb when you draw, the thickness of the material...etc, will all come in play. The tip will also affect the draw.

Even a 2" reduction will change a lot of things even if only the length of riser is reduced. You will then look at the performance/efficient of the bow as well.

That's why making a shorter bow with good weight is much much harder. We went through four to six bows to finalize each of our designs.

I can't give you a specific number cuz each design is different number.

[dfrois]

My first takedown was a 60" recurve, and after reading a lot i decided to keep my limb design as it was (a profile copy of some target limbs), and just increase the limb pad angle by about 4 degrees. It probably decreases eficiency a bit, but it is a good way to avoid stack with short bows, I think. I can't see why the same concept can not be applied to a one-piece recurve, if that's your intention, Troy. Mind you, I'm just a newbie trying to share some of what I have learned in the past year or so. Some of it from you, Troy. So thank you for that. I wish I could help more.

DF