thin limbs, worth finishing bow?

[bornofmud]

So I messed up quite badly in the glue up, and while I've managed to iron out all the funkyness, my limbs now have a starting width of 1 1/8".  It is a 66" overall with a 21" riser, r/d style longbow.  I was planning on trapping the limbs to try and increase stability, but before I glue up the back of the riser and use more materials, I wanted to ask if there is still potential for this to be a good shooting bow, or if I should save the material and try again.   Any other tricks to try and increase the stability?  

Thanks!
Nick

[macbow]

This is a glass bow? What is your draw length target.
With a 21 inch riser and 66 ttt. That leaves 45 inches for the working limbs and tips.maybe 43 inches,of working,limb.
If you have a,short draw then  it might all work out.

It will make a really nice youth bow. So worth completing.

[bornofmud]

It is a glass bow.  and the 66" is NTN. The target draw was 28".  Does a short draw make it okay to have thinner limbs?  How does that increase the stability of the limbs? Just less stress on them overall?  Thanks.

[Robertfishes]

Pics are always good to post. I say build it, You will lose a few lbs of draw weight from it being narrower than you wanted..I'm guessing the riser is also 1 1/8" wide? you will have lost some riser strength too, if you can overlay some glass on the back of the riser then you can add some strength to the riser that way. I had a goof up on one too, but mine still came out 1 3/8" wide. I bought a double carbon bow once that was only 1 inch wide at the fades and 3/8" wide at tips.

[macbow]

I was figuring the stress due to less width.
I'm more of a wood or backed bow guy. With a wood only bow I would not pull it to 28 inches with those numbers.

Need one of the glass bow guys to help out.
The,question would be what the,string angle would be at full draw.

[Robertfishes]

The longbow guys will want more info...how thick is the glass? what is your taper rate? that kind of information

[Dan Bonner]

I would cut it back to 64" to recover some draw weight and finish it. I build a 64" RD that I routinely cut to 1.25" . I build it with a 22" riser and 7" tip wedges. It is my favorite design.  No stack to 30+" smooth fast and quiet. Pikeing it will also help keep the tips from rolling over like a Hill bow which will rob cast. In general the narrower a glass bow's limbs are to reach a given draw weight the better it will perform. This is because glass is the heaviest part of the limb. Skinny limbs equal more light weight wood and less heavy glass. All my bows are built narrow with a deep stack.


Bonner

[bornofmud]

Thanks for the info guys, I'll go ahead and finish it.  I just put some temp nocks on it and there is no rolling over of the tips (even remotely, might want to taper the tips more actually as they're dead straight at a 30" draw). Does look like there might be some limb twist though :/.  Hopefully it's just from my rough job on the nocks.

[Trux Turning]

I'm with Dan on this- cut an inch off both ends and finish it. I wouldn't trap it- if the tips need to be stiffened you can add a tip wedge to the belly.

[talkingcabbage]

X 3 on finishing it.  1 1/8" isn't bad at all for a glass bow.  Depending on what draw weight you're looking for, finish it as is or cut an inch or 2 off the tips.  I've built 62" R/D longbows at 1 1/4" wide limbs with a 21" riser and have had no problems up to 60#, so if you're shooting for less than that, should be fine.