How do you mate your riser to a R/D bow

[Razorbak]

my bows failed due to my bad tillering skills and bad wood and trying to make some out of my skill level...before the build alongs I didn't know any better in reading grain and moisture content...violating the backs and not letting wood cure and mainly rushing ahead..basically not knowing what I was doing...when I say I failed I really failed and its one thing in archery I am really bad at but Im trying hard to fixed that...I broken 7 in the past 3 weeks...Im done with HD boards...saving up for some good wood.....cant buy like I use to  

[Roy from Pa]

The bow in the pictures looks pretty good, Art. Except it's hinged at both flares, right outside the riser area, and your limbs are flat. Your bow is bending in one spot at the hinges. Use the gizmo and get your limbs bending in a nice even arc from the very start of tillering. Make them limbs look like a 1/4 moon.

   

[Razorbak]

that's what I thought and David thought as well as I had a real hard time getting the limbs to bend..it actually came out bending like a Japanese Yumi bow I kid you not..I use the gizmo but it doesn't do flares and dips and I still think Im not using it correctly for some reason

[dfrois]

My hat is off to you for your persistence! I would have given up long ago...that said, you are in the best place for advice. Knowledge here is plentiful, as is the will to help. So, ask away. And, if you can, buy, borrow or steal the first volume of the TBB series. It deals with wood structure, tillering, and most of the things that a novice finds puzzling in building wood bows. I know, I'm there too! I wish you the best of luck with your efforts. After so many bows, you more than deserve it!

DF

[Razorbak]

I have all the volumes of the TBB..just misplaced the 1st 3 volumes..Im not gonna quit until I get a shootable bow that doesn't break...here are some full draw pics which I see it now that I have some hinges..what I was worried about... [/url] [/IMG]  [/url] [/IMG]

[Zradix]

Have you tried tapering the thickness of your belly wood before glue up?
Might want to consider trying it at 1/2" thick through the riser area plus about 4" past, then taper the thickness to 3/8" at the tips.
Also, might want to keep the bow width parellel through that same area as well.
..hard to see in the pics.. but it almost looks as if the thinnest part of your limb is right after the fade..might just be the angle though.

Doing this will greatly strengthen the area at the fades and really help to keep hinges away from that area.

Now I've only built one bbo.
So weigh the advice from whom it is.
But doing this did work.

[D]

I'm pretty sure that board was thickness tapered one that I sent him Zradix.  I sent him two..one that wasen't and one that was.  Its 1/2 inch in the middle and then a couple inches ouf from the center its tapered .0025 per inch to the tip.

You will get the hang of it Art.  No worries.  Get those midlimbs bending on the next one.  Hey Roy can you do your oval picture thing over his pic to give him a better idea how its suppost to look.  That is very helpful and I have no idea how to do it.

[Razorbak]

Yep it was the tapered one I glued up from David. The other hickory blew up right at draw. Misread my scale. Thought it was 60 but it was 90 when I had on tree exceed using the limbs.  Told you I was bad David.  LOL.  Next one I will do build along and get everyone's help. I'm tired if messing up and blowing up bows. LOL

[Roy from Pa]

Yes your bow has hinges and they come from what you told me in the pm of removing wood 1.5 out from the dips to get the bow to bend. You can save the bow by taking wood off the rest of the limbs, that will relieve some stress on those hinges.

   

[Razorbak]

Thanks everyone. Another lesson learned. To bad alot  if you guys live so far away. LOL. I would have saved alot of aggravation over the years

[Dan Bonner]

Why not cut the handle out like you want it first, use it as the center of your form, bend the lams over it and glue it up all at once? Thats what we glass bowyers would do.

Bonner

[Zradix]

I thought about that myself Dan.

I figured if I were to use the type of form I was planning on..just posts.. The limbs might take a weird bend just at the end of the riser.

Also, I was worried that getting a good glue line through the thick part of the belly wood to the riser might be pretty tricky when you don't want to put too much pressure on the backing with clamps.

..and I wasn't sure what kind of springback would happen in the rest of the bow when the middle of the bow couldn't spring back.

anyway..those were my thoughts/worries..and that's why I didn't try it.

But my worries very well may be unfounded..it's not like I'm an expert.

[Bowjunkie]

I can't think of a reason why you couldn't glue the handle on at the same time the backing is applied, if you had your caul designed for it. It may reduce the versatility of my form, or cause more work during setting it up, as I seldom make the exact same profile twice... in fact, I don't believe I ever have.

It literally takes just a few minutes to shape and glue up a handle piece after the fact.

[Razorbak]

Zradix. That's what I thought that's why I didn't do it. I figure the bend in handle wouldn't hold the handle because of the slight arch in blank.  If I was doing a straight form or something like a small backset I'm sure that would work great.   Gonna fix my hinges and fix the limb and give the bow to a lefty kid I know that would like this.   Back to drawing board so to speak   Thanks everyone for the help and tips. I think my next one will be one that survives