Hoping for some advice on starting a stave

[takefive]

This is my first attempt at a bow from a stave and I sure would appreciate some advice.  It's red elm, 66" long, kinda thin ringed I guess, and there are some shallow gouges from where the bark was removed.  I started scraping it just to try to get the feel of doing that.  If I can stay on one ring of the sapwood, can I just use that for the back of the bow or should I take the sapwood off altogether?  Looks like it will have a slight crown either way, and I'm wondering if making the limbs a bit wider would compensate for that. It's at about 20% MC and I made a drying box with 2 75 watt bulbs.  Sorry for all the noob questions.  Thanks again for the help you guys have given me with my board bows, it's been much appreciated.

 

 

[SEMO_HUNTER]

Get the sapwood off first then chase it down to one ring throughout the entire length. Looking at the growth rings, I'm thinking maybe half way down would be your best one?

[SEMO_HUNTER]

Probably somewhere in this region?

 
 elmstave2_zps6203e688  by  Mohunter68 , on Flickr

[Pat B]

I'd use the sapwood as the back. Use a scraper to get to one ring on the back then lay out the bow, cut it out and start reducing the belly. 20% is too high so after you get it to floor tiller stage put it in the hot box for a week or so then check the moisture again.
 I'd leave it 66" long, make it 1 5/8" to 1 3/4" at the fades and out to mid limb then taper to 1/2" tips for now. Leave the handle area wide and thick so you'll have a place to clamp the bow while working on it. Also the extra width in the handle and the tips may come in handy to line up the string after first brace.

[takefive]

Thanks much for the advice Semo Hunter and Pat.  I just realized that I left out some important information.  The stave is only 2 1/8" wide on the narrow end and 2 1/2" thick, so I think I'll have to go with keeping the sapwood on.  I guess I made a rookie mistake buying a stave with rings that thin.  I've been scraping it carefully and so far so good, but if I can't stay on one ring, I guess I can always take the sapwood off and back it with a thin piece of hickory.  Those dimensions sound great, Pat.  Thanks again guys!

[CardboardDuck]

Here is one I made out of Red Elm

 http://tradgang.com/noncgi/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=125;t=009900;p=1

I left a single ring of sapwood on the back and it worked out just fine. I think this one was 62" and 1 5/8" out to 10" from the tips and tapers to 3/8".

[takefive]

Beautiful bow, CardboardDuck.  I love the look of the grain at the fades.  With my inexperience I'll be happy if I can get the sapwood down to any one ring and I have four chances at it if I counted right.  Most of my bows have hickory backs and unfortunately I've been taking some grain violation for granted and found out recently that is a very bad habit to get into. So, if I stray  from one ring on this stave it will probably be a fatal mistake?

[Bowjunkie]

You can stay in one ring. Take your time and keep track of what you're doing.

Elm sapwood makes a fine bow. I've made elm bows that were ALL sapwood.

I would try very carefully to only remove the ring that the drawknife violated... then make the bow.

Semo hunter, if he dug down to one of those heartwood rings, there wouldn't be enough left for a handle.

[CardboardDuck]

Just take your time and don't overthink it  

Ring chasing isn't that hard to do, just be gentle and make sure you have good lighting. You can feel/see the difference between the early/late wood. The early wood will be kind of spongy, you'll see when you get into it. Practice on the first ring so you can get the feel of it before you start on your target ring.

[takefive]

Thanks for the encouragement guys.  I think I see what you mean about the early wood CardboardDuck.  I feel the difference when the scraper is on it and it's kinda chalky when it comes off (?)  I'm taking it very slow.