Aquafortis Reagent

[stickmonkey]

I have used AQ for bringing out the curls in the hawk handles when I forge period hawk heads but have been wanting to try a diluted solution on some curly lams I got from Kenny.

For those of you that have used the AQ in the past have there been any issues with the AQ and delaminations? I normally dilute with water but has anyone diluted with alcohol? How did it workout?

Did you use heat strips or an oven to cure the limb? I am thinking the heat strips will blush the lams better than the oven due to the heat involved directly over the lam rather than radiation from the light bulbs heating the form.

Any things to look out for or to be aware of when using AQ for lams?

I get the AQ from track of the wolf and gives great results for stocks, risers and hawk handles.

[JamesV]

Never used it on a bow but great for longrifles.

[George Tsoukalas]

Aqua Fortis is nitric acid, HNO3, which is a very, very strong acid. Glasses and plastic gloves are a must. I would not use a dangerous, corrosive substance on a bow or anything else for that matter.
Dilute with water if you must use it.
Jawge

[stickmonkey]

George it is the stain of choice for curly maple and has been used for centuries. I use it a good bit for bringing out the curls in the handles for period tomahawks as well as rifle stocks. It is not very concentrated and is easy to work with with just some  gloves and a heat gun.

I just have never used it under glass on a lamination and an curious to hear how others have faired with it.

[George Tsoukalas]

I know, stick. I just worked with that stuff most of my life so I have a healthy respect for acids. Jawge

[bamboo]

call smooth-on-----talk to a chemist

[Eric Krewson]

When I use AQ on flintlock stocks I neutralize it with a dilute lye solution and then use copious mounts of water to wash the lye off. Don't know how well lams would stand up to this procedure.

[monterey]

Stick, I did a bow in plain maple just to give this a try.  Here are a couple close ups of the maple under glass.

 

 

It did bring out the charachter a bit but OTOH, the wood had virtually no character to begin with.

First off, I did not use actual AQ.  I used Ferric Nitrate crystals and water.  Having used my own homemade AQ as well as diluted nitric acid on several gunsstocks, I can say that the ferric nitrate crystals are a way better option than messing with AQ or pure nitric.  In fact I have a rather large amount of nitric acid on a shelf and would like to know how to get redi of it!

But, I did use the typical methods of application in that I blushed it with a hair dryer and then neutralized with baking soda/water solution.  

You need to be very careful with your heat when blusing toward the thin ends of your tapers!  

As for neutralizing, I have since been told that it is not necessary to neutralize when using ferric nitrate crystals.  Nevertheless, I'd not take a chance and if do it again will still neutralize.  I simply sopped the soda and water on and thouroughly soaked  the lams and then rinsed them well.  Let them dry for five days before lamming into the bow.  Mine were drying in low humidity CO air so it could take longer in high humidity.  Moisture meter would be handy.

I'll probably do this again but will use curly or birds eye maple.  This project was just on a whim to see how it would work and how dark it might look under glass.

If you do it, would sure like to see the results!  

[Eric Krewson]

Ferric nitrate is probably a better option for bow lams, no acid involved and acording to the flintlock guys works just as well as AQ.