First Self Bow...what should I do first?

[shag08]

Hey Folks,

After about four years of shooting traditional I have an unrelenting urge within me to build a bow of my own. It seems like its all I can think about any more...gotta build a bow.

I'm a logger in Tennessee so finding the right tree for staves shouldn't be too much of a problem. Matter of fact, for the past month at work, I've went over every small hickory and large osage that I run across with a fine tooth comb.

I picked up TBB volume 4 at the local book store a couple weeks ago and I've read it cover to cover quite a few times. I felt that there was alot missing so I ordered the other three volumes that arrived today. I've already read Vol 1 and starting on Vol 2.

I want to start on this as soon as I can. I'm thinking of going with a hickory bow for my first rodeo. There was an article in Trad Bowhunters Mag a few issues ago that I really liked. It seemed easier for a beginning bowyer...and there alot more workable hickory where I'm working now than there is osage. The osage is all pretty rough.

If what I've read and understand is true...I can go cut the tree at any time. Bring it home, split it into staves, bust the bark off of it (never touching the wood under the bark on hickory, it is the back of the bow and remains in tact) let it cure out and I'm ready to start the process.

Heres my question...What should I start on first? The stave can keep for an extended period of time as I understand.

It looks like a tillering tree is more than necessary. Should I try to build one during the drying process?

I don't even know how to make bow strings. This also looks to be very important to the tillering...i.e. long string to start the process. Should I know how to do this?

Any help yall can offer would be VERY greatly appreciated. I know the native americans did all this with nothing more than stone tools and a genuine knowledge passed down through generations. But I don't have all the knowledge and I'm not ready to do it with stone tools just yet. Oh, btw, any extremely useful tool recommendations would be great too.

Thanks so much folks,

Brandon

[Sam Harper]

Yes, you should make a tillering tree and you should learn how to make strings.  For tillering, you should have a string with a flemish loop at one end and a timber hitch at the other.  That way you can adjust the length and use it for tillering bows of various lengths, and for using it as a long string or bracing.  They're very handy.

Here's a video showing how to set up a tillering tree:

 

There are a gazillion string building tutorials--both written and video.  Here's mine:

 http://poorfolkbows.com/flemish1.htm

Let's face it.  You're not going to be able to make just one bow.  You're going to get addicted.  You can buy strings for $12 each, or you can make them for 50 cents each.  I use B-50 dacron, which you can get at Three Rivers Archery.

Good luck!

[Sam Harper]

Here's a video of my tillering string:

 

[Bowjunkie]

Yes, build a tillering tree and get the tools you will need as your staves dry. If you get too impatient, you can buy a stave already seasoned, use a board, or try to speed-dry one of your hickory staves.

I would NOT build a tillering tree like the one in the video above... well, not exactly like that one. I wouldn't even put one of my bows on it and draw it.

You can just as easily build one that is infinitely more versatile and mimics your shooting style. Notice how his pulley is anchored/unmovable, and is located so that it pulls the string from the center of the handle... have you ever drawn a bow like that? Do you suppose you ever will? My advice is to tiller it, and precisely time it, while replicating your bow and string holds on your tree as closely as possible. It's no more difficult, and you will make better bows because of it.

I have a piece of 1/2" drill rod held in two 1/2" pillow block bearings mounted to the wall, way down by the floor, directly under the cradle of the tillering tree. The bearings are about 12" apart, and the 1/2" shaft has 4 pulleys on it. The pulleys are positioned to replicate either a split finger or three under string hold, regardless of whether the top limb is facing left or right on the tree. They are also easily relocated as needed by simply loosening a set screw in the pulley. Even though they're movable, I put four pulleys on the shaft so I don't have to move them all the time. They were cheap. I can post pictures if needed.

Get Dean Torges' book, Hunting the Osage Bow. It is geared mainly toward osage selfbows, but much of the information in it is easily applied/adapted to hickory and other woods as well. It covers tree selection, caring for/curing your wood, tool selection and care, the bow building process, finishes, etc. Best money I ever spent on bowmaking. I have the Traditional Bowyer's Bible series... they're good too.

You will need a drying box to bring your staves to the appropriate moisture content... unless you can accurately control the relative humidity where you store your wood. I have a dehumidifier in my shop.

Forgo the cheap dept store rasps that chew and tear wood. Get a good rasp. A Nicholson #49 is a beautiful thing. It's an investment you'll fall in love with. A farrier's rasp is very useful too. Buy new ones, not used/dull ones.

Cabinet scrapers, straight and gooseneck. Learn to sharpen them correctly.

All such stuff and more is covered in Dean's book.

He also has some EXCELLENT articles on his website... stuff that wasn't covered in as much detail as it was in the book. But still... get the book  

Here's the link to Dean's article page...

  http://www.bowyersedge.com/articles.html

[Eric Krewson]

I live about 30 miles south of Lawrenceburg, If you are close enough, you are welcome to drop by my shop for a day of instruction. I have made a few selfbows, just finished #141.

I have a nice shop set up to make bows, and plenty of dry hickory staves to get you started.

 

[John Scifres]

Don't overthink the prep.  Start making bows.  That's how you will learn.

Mount as big of a vise as you can handle on a sturdy workbench and get a good drawknife.  Padded jaws on a vise are important.

Cut your wood now.  Split it into staves, take the bark off your hickory and the bark and sapwood off your osage.  Coat with shellac.  Take one stave and reduce it to 2" wide and 5/8" thick for the working limb.  Follow the grain when reducing width.  Leave it somewhere cool for a couple weeks and then place it in your air conditioned house for a couple more.  Then work it down to bow dimensions and start bending it.  If it's osage, you'll chase a ring.  Hickory can use the first sapwood ring under the bark.

In the month available, order a good rasp, a scraper, and make your tillering tree.  Learn how to twist up a string.  It's really easy.

Take Eric up on his offer too.  In 30 days, you'll be learning how to make great bows and have a stash of wood and a workshop to practice on.  By October you'll have a hunting bow ready for whitetails.  Have fun!

[macbow]

I'd jump all over Eric's offer.

[Sam Harper]

Gee, I wish Eric lived 30 miles from me.

[shag08]

Hey guys,

Thanks alot for everybody's replies and useful information given. All of what I've learned here has already helped me a great deal in my learning curve.

Y'all have told me things i haven't read or even began to consider to think of on my own. The info on tillering trees and string making are priceless.

Bowjunkie, I'm gonna purchase the book recommended. I'm also gonna check out the website when I get a chance...kinda been pressed for time today.

Eric, I'd like to take you up on that offer if it still stands. I'd LOVE to see a shop thats set up with what is needed and take some notes. And to talk with an experienced bowyer of your caliber...I can't even put into words how much that would mean. I'm a little more than than 30 miles from you though...I reside in Cookeville, TN. Google maps says it'll be about a 3 hour trip...but I'm more than good with that. A six hour round trip to learn as much as I know that I could learn from you is time more than well spent. Shoot me a PM if you don't mind and we will try to set something up.

Thanks SO much to EVERYBODY,

Brandon

[Bob at Work]

Having someone show you how to make a string only takes a few minutes...trying to learn from reading/watching a video takes much much longer... Eric can save you lots of time.

[Sam Harper]

Originally posted by shag08:
Google maps says it'll be about a 3 hour trip...but I'm more than good with that.

Brandon

Yeah, I'd be good with that, too.

[halfseminole]

Shoot, he's even closer to me.  In fact, I passed through Florence today.

(I shouldn't say I, I can't drive anymore.  People take me places when I need to go, but my wife and I had been camping up at Meriwether Lewis for a good part of the week.)

[Eric Krewson]

I often have visitors from 150 miles away for a day of bow making, always a fun day.

What I have found is locals drop by the shop, see there is hard work to be done and never come back.

People who travel a long way are here to work, arrive early and stay late, we become good friends by the end of the day.

Mike Boone drove here from Arkansas with Casey McClaren. These guys were workers! I have yet to have a long distance visitor who wasn't.

   

   

I have had visitors from Nashville, Memphis, Tupelo, Tuscaloosa, Hallyville and Fulton Ms, and probably a bunch of other places that I have forgotten, lots of visitors, all hungry to make bows and great guys.

[Fritz]

I'd second jumping on Eric's offer. It's because of his tillering gizmo I can even tiller out a bow. Thanks again for sharing that, Eric. Would love to see your shop one day and learn some more from one of the masters.

[macbow]

Bowjunkie, I'd like to,see,a.picture of your pulley set up.

[SEMO_HUNTER]

Dang Eric, I wish I could work with you in your shop! I'm jealous.
Chris