Quarter Splitting Question

[RedStag5728]

This morning I went out and harvested some hickory staves that I found and marked last year. I went ahead and split them down the middle with the skip-the-wedge method(not using the chain-saw to cut a kerf). I was wondering what size trees are suitable for cutting into quarter logs, as two of these logs I feel are almost suitable for it...

I took some measurements of these logs as you can see; please note that the measurements up top of the stave are the small diameter (top portion of the tree) and the bottom measurements are towards the root of the tree (largest portion).

Small Hickory Stave Top Measurement:

 

Small Hickory Bottom Measurement:

 


Medium Hickory Top Measurement:

 

Medium Hickory Bottom Measurement:

 

Large Hickory Top Measurement:

 

Large hickory bottom measurement:

 


Are these hickories the right size for splitting into halves again (quarters)? If not, what size logs do yall prefer to split into quarters?

Thanks

Randy

[RedStag5728]

PS: Here's the ends of the top portions of the logs if this helps...

Small Hickory Top:

 

Medium Hickory Top:

 

Large Hickory Top:

 

[scrub-buster]

If I had those logs, I would try to split the bigger ones again.  You might even be able to split the smaller one.  Maybe remove the bark and see exactly what you are working with.  Are there any knots?

[John Scifres]

I like to have 3" across the back for a stave.  I would quarter those.

[macbow]

Agree, even with the small end of the smallest you would have
A enough for a small bow.
Everything depends on where any knots show up.
I'd pull the bark off to make the decision easier.

[RedStag5728]

I attempted to take the bark off but it is clinging real tight with the tree. Just so I'm clear, when you look at the cross-sectional (to see the rings) the bark extends and makes up that thick brown layer correct? I'm sorry if this question is stupid but this is the first time i've EVER cut down a tree and attempted to season and make a bow from it.

Would it be easier to let the staves dry for a few days and then take the bark off or should I just use a draw knife?

From my inspection the larger log has maybe 3 or 4 knots about the size of a dime smack dab in the middle of the split stave spaced about 24" apart or so. The medium stave has mostly pin knots, some located in the center and some around the edges of the stave. And the smaller split staves has only 2 or 3 pin knots at the very edge of the split stave.

Like you guys suggested I need to take the bark off for a better look at the back. Would it be best to let the staves dry a few days and then remove the bark or should I use a little elbow grease and a draw knife to remove it?

Thanks for the replies

Randy

[scrub-buster]

If the bark is stuck you might want to leave them how they are and let them dry for a while.  It might keep them from warping or twisting as bad.  I left the bark on some hickory for a year or so and then pried it off in thin strips.  I still had to remove the cambium layer with the drawknife and scraper.  The white creamy color wood is what you want to get down to.  You can leave some patches of cambium on the back as a natural camo.

[Bowjunkie]

In order for the bark to just 'pop off', sometimes in one big piece, it needs to be done very soon after cutting. In the first couple days. I often do it the same day I cut it... sometimes the next day. But if I wait much longer than that, I iust plan on drawknifing it off because as soon as it starts to dry, it glues itself on there..

I would quarter those logs. For future reference, I like to cut bigger diameter trees so that after quartering, there is plenty of wood left on the inside for a deep handle. But even if there isn't enough, you can make some nice bend-thru-the-handle bows with what you have.

[macbow]

Usually with hickory the bark will come off in one piece. Then your left with the back of the bow.
Might 1/4 them first.
If you take about a,2 or 3 pound hammer and strike the edge of the bark on the end of the stave. That will usually get it,started. Sometimes a big screw driver will help.
If you have to use a draw knife it can be,difficult not to end up chasing a ring.

[scrub-buster]

This late in summer the bark might start to stick.  I've cut it in September and it was stuck tight.

[RedStag5728]

I think I will go ahead and quarter them, worst case scenario my nephews and nieces would have some nice bows    

I'll quarter them and then see if I can't get the bark off with striking the ends with a hammer. If that don't work then I'll let them season for a little while and then trying, and then as a last resort use the drawknife.

I asked Roy through a PM when the best time to harvest hickory was and he told me Aug/Sept, so I figured the end of august, early septemeber. I may try to harvest them next year a little earlier, and experiment with different harvest times to find my favorite time to harvest. I've got quite a bit of trees that are marked, so there's plenty more potential staves to be had.

Randy

[scrub-buster]

Well there is your problem.  You listened to a retired meter maid.    

[macbow]

I think I did mine in early June. Think there is something about waiting for the new,layer to,grow,some.
I was told to cut after the leaves were,fully developed.

[canopyboy]

I'd quarter the two bigger ones and leave the small ones as is.  That way you have more flexibility to fit your stave between knots on the small one.  If it ends up being knot free when you eventually pull the bark, you can always quarter then and make two bows from each half.

I thought the idea with hickory was of two schools:  Cut first thing in the spring just as the sap starts to flow and buds form.  The bark pops right off, and underneath is basically all of last year's summer growth.  Or cut in the early fall after this year's growth has essentially stopped.  You do end up with stuck bark at this point, but as noted it can make a cool camo pattern that I kind of like.  

I thought you didn't want to cut it in the early summer as your back ends up being a thin and developing summer growth layer over the porous spring growth -- basically you get a thin ring for your back.

[Roy from Pa]

I get in more trouble on here:) I would have taken the bark off within a couple hours after they hit the ground.

[RedStag5728]

Canopyboy you have my thoughts exactly about splitting the two larger trees again. I think next year I am going to harvest some hickories at different times to experiment.

When I brought the staves home from the woods I immediately split them. I ate lunch then tried to remove the bark, and they were stuck like glue. Of course I really didn't try to be too rough with the staves with removing the bark (using a screwdriver) the last thing I want to do is end up chasing a ring (my least favorite step). But if its necessary I will do so. I am still working on an osage stave which the ring I'm chasing has about 9 years worth of growth on top of it