Author Topic: Reflex/Deflex and Tip Flip Question  (Read 447 times)

Offline Robyn Hode

  • Trad Bowhunter
  • **
  • Posts: 176
Reflex/Deflex and Tip Flip Question
« on: September 13, 2013, 06:04:00 AM »
I have read a lot about reflex/deflex bow designs but I still do not quite get how it is done. Does the bow have to be a tri-lam. Can you reflex/deflex a hickory or red oak flat bow? I also have seen the term tip flip. It looks like the ends are bent towards the back of the bow. Is this correct? How is this done? Can this be done on a flat bow?

I know I have a lot of questions but I have a lot to learn. Thanks everyone for helping me.
'Nothing's forgotten... nothing's ever forgotten' - Robin of Sherwood

Offline John Scifres

  • TGMM Member
  • Trad Bowhunter
  • ***
  • Posts: 4540
Re: Reflex/Deflex and Tip Flip Question
« Reply #1 on: September 13, 2013, 07:23:00 AM »
Reflex refers to the tips being bent towards the back.  Deflex refers to the handle looking a bit like it is bent during draw.  "Reflex/Deflex" (R/D) is a design that helps a bow maintain pleasant shooting characteristics as well as maximizes efficiency.  It's sort of a compromise between a straightlimbed longbow and a recurve.  They also look cool.

Any longbow can be R/D.  Heat can be applied to selfbows to reflex the tips or bend the whole bow into shape.

Flipping the tips means just adding a bit of reflex to the last 6" or so of unbending tip.
Take a kid hunting!

TGMM Family of the Bow

Offline Black Mockingbird

  • Trad Bowhunter
  • **
  • Posts: 342
Re: Reflex/Deflex and Tip Flip Question
« Reply #2 on: September 13, 2013, 07:32:00 AM »
A reflex deflex bow has a handle area/section that deflexes..which means it angles down towards the string..and then the limbs are reflexed(away from the string) they can have various degrees of deflex and reflex and not all are the same...it only pertains to the shape and not the materials used...it can be done with a selfbow stave,all wood laminates,or glass...I've built many from self bows and some all wood laminates...its one of my favorite designs and IMHO prob the best overall design scoring well in every phase of the draw and shot...

Flipped tips are exactly that...the last several inches will be bent slightly more up away from the string than the rest of the limb...but not to the point of it being a recurve with the string contacting the belly if the limb at brace...

Edit...looks like john just beat me by seconds...lol

Offline John Scifres

  • TGMM Member
  • Trad Bowhunter
  • ***
  • Posts: 4540
Re: Reflex/Deflex and Tip Flip Question
« Reply #3 on: September 13, 2013, 07:49:00 AM »
When I say "longbow", I include flatbows as a sub-category.  Most of what I build are flatbows.  So to further answer your question more directly: Yes a hickory or red oak flat bow can be made R/D.  However, it is a pretty aggressive design for red oak which, first off does not respond all that well to a heat gun and secondly, has less compression strength than would be optimal for a design that concentrates bend in a smaller area.  Good hickory would be a better choice.  Osage even better.  Full disclosure: I have never made a R/D red oak.
Take a kid hunting!

TGMM Family of the Bow

Online Roy from Pa

  • Administrator
  • Trad Bowhunter
  • ****
  • Posts: 20668
Re: Reflex/Deflex and Tip Flip Question
« Reply #4 on: September 13, 2013, 07:54:00 AM »
I induce d/r at glue up, here is a tri lam in the form.

 

And how it looks after glue up.

 

Offline Robyn Hode

  • Trad Bowhunter
  • **
  • Posts: 176
Re: Reflex/Deflex and Tip Flip Question
« Reply #5 on: September 13, 2013, 04:36:00 PM »
Do you always have to add heat to get the wood to bend? I thought the hot boxes were used to cure the glue. Can a hair dryer be used instead of a heat gun? Will it be hot enough?

Thanks everyone for your help. I really like the reflex/deflex bow design.
'Nothing's forgotten... nothing's ever forgotten' - Robin of Sherwood

Offline takefive

  • Trad Bowhunter
  • **
  • Posts: 1098
Re: Reflex/Deflex and Tip Flip Question
« Reply #6 on: September 13, 2013, 06:18:00 PM »
If you use 3 laminations (back, core, and belly) you shouldn't need to heat them to get a nice R/D profile.  If you glue them up with Unibond you don't need a hot box for the glue to set, the room just should be above 70 degrees.  Hair dryer won't be hot enough.  One of our forum members bought a cheap heat gun from Harbor Freight that's held up for a couple of years.  Or you can look for a Wagner on sale at one of the big box stores.  Won't set you back too much.
It's hard to make a wooden bow which isn't beautiful, even if it's ugly.
-Tim Baker

Users currently browsing this topic:

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.
 

Contact Us | Trad Gang.com © | User Agreement

Copyright 2003 thru 2024 ~ Trad Gang.com ©