new member with some questions

[loneviking]

Yeah, I'd agree that the one limb is a bit stiffer. Our friend over on Youtube, his limbs were just a bit less than 1/2 inch when finished and the bow was a 55lb'er at 28.  

For fine work on any wood I don't use a rasp. I go with a small plane or a Stanley 81 scraper. It's much easier to take off just a bit here or there with a blade.

[LittleBen]

I think thats too short for a 28" draw length, especially with short working limbs. Give it a try, but I think you're going to either end up with enourmous set and chrysaling or a bow of maybe 30#.

[Rdog]

I also think its too short, next time around it will be longer for sure.  What would you say is a better length?

However the plans came right from youtube except for the add ons I put on the limb tips, the builder got 48# @29 inches.

The more I think about it I will aim for right around 40# on this one, as 35# is the min weight for hunting here.  

If it works it will be great, if not, I will have at least learned a little.

I didn't tiller any today, but I made another string, its a hair long as I ended up with less than a hand and thumb distance, but maybe that's good as I still need much tillering.

[John Scifres]

I see several new folks making this design.  In my opinion, this is advanced work.  Make a few straight limbed, normal tiller bows before you try this.  Here is a good tute:   http://sticknstring.webs.com/ferretsboardbow.htm

And just saying, red oak is not the best choice for this design.  I understand that it is cheap and available.  But is that where you want to lay the  foundation for your craft?  Finding good wood can be hard.  But it is worth it.

[Rdog]

The next build will not be a molly, it is a bit tricky, and I do have this gut feeling longer would be better.  I think the design is very cool and I will build more like this for sure though

Here is the string I did, its still long, as the brace was low, but it was on purpose, to have an intermediate tiller string (and more practice).
 

Well I got a little more brave and worked the mid limb to outer fade more, and things were looking better...

Then I flexed it too much...and got this.
 

Sent this limb over 10 feet...
 

 

I also got a bloody face from smacking it into the screws sticking out of my tiller tree. Three nice bloody wounds, between the eyes, on my nose, and above my lip.

But hey, I don't feel too bad, I learned something, and can't wait to get back at it.  I'll be looking for the right board right away.

I wish I had not messed up the first backing attempt, as I wonder how it would have held up during the break?

(I didn't go into the backing issue I had here, but if you want to read about it check out "my failures in board bow building" at the "bushcraft usa" forum.)

I suspect it was the arrow shelf that did me in, I had fears about it, the handle and shelf were the first mistakes I made in this build.

[onemississipp]

I'm with John on this one, if you want a bow for hunting the the design of a flat bow can't be beat!

Another thing a lot of people forget it is during the process; is to to never pull the bow past the intended draw weight.

*when floor tillering place the tip on the bathroom scale.*

[takefive]

Ouch; sorry to read about your bow but glad that you're okay.  You should put a pulley on your tillering tree so you can stand clear of it when you flex the limbs.  I've also learned through my own board  bow failures that my wood choice literally makes or breaks the bow.  I've tried lighter woods like cherry and walnut on R/D style bows and found that they just can't tolerate the limb stress inherent in those designs.  Now I use stronger woods; osage or hickory.
Glad to hear that you are undeterred, though.  Good luck on your next one.