Thunderbird

[Pheonixarcher]

I have never used this product before, and would like to ask the bench their opinions on application and execution.
What are the different methods of application?
What products will I need for proper application and clean up?
Does it require a thinner?
What tools are needed to spray it on?
Should it be cured with heat?
What is the best "hunting" finish?(satin or semi-gloss)
Who is the best sponsor for purchasing said products?

As you can tell, I'm still pretty green when it comes to building bows. Sorry for all the questions. I just don't want to ruin all my hard work with a poor finish. Thanks.

[Bowjunkie]

They say you can brush it on, but I never did. An air compressor and spray gun give professional quality results. I use a touch-up gun.

Use their thinner to thin the finish, but for clean up, use a cheap laquer thinner that you can buy by the gallon at department stores.

I thin it a little less when spraying the first few coats on, as I fill in grain and build depth, but then thin it a little more for the final few coats.

No, not cured with heat. Cured at room temps.

I prefer satin for all of my bows.

I get it directly from Thunderbird.

Definitely wear a carbon filter mask that removes vapors. You don't want to breath the stuff.

[BigJim]

We sell the exact same stuff from the same mfg. but market it as Buffalo hide finish. It is ass tough as it gets. I also have heard of people brushing it on but don't know how well that works. I spray with a Devilbis finish line gun (automotive). My gun runs about $145 ready to go and has always done a very nice job.
I am unaware of how other guns except the same version in a cheaper model are. I did not like them at all.
The thinner that comes with them works great and I usually thin about 20-25% and also fill with it.

Clean up is easy and can be done with a half and half mixture of acetone and laquer thinner (this will save you  money over the factory thinner...on clean up only)

good luck, BigJim

[Bivyhunter]

I build all of my base coats in gloss, then top coat in matte. If you spray multiple coats of matte (or satin), you'll end up with a milky finish that obscures the grain.

[Pheonixarcher]

Thanks everyone. I've been doing a lot of research, but it seems that everyone has a different method or uses different products. Not exactly sure which way I'm gonna go yet, so please keep the info coming. Thanks.

[Bodork]

I've gone to the flat for hunting bows. The satin still seemed to have a little shine to it to me. I do a low pressure heavy material mist coat on the last coat to make a textured matte finish. The grain still looks nice but reflection is minimal.
 Don't try to force the finish to lay down by spraying a heavy coat on. A little orange peel will lay down as it cures. Light coats rather than heavy coats.
 I like the small touch up gun from harbor freight because the cup is small. Be sure to take the gun apart and clean it real good after each use. Don't just spray thinner through it. Any epoxy left in the gun will gunk it up when it cures. Done that.

[mzombek]

I use a neat little sprayer manufactured by Preval.
You can get it at Lowes or Menards. It is a small model spray unit with the capacity to paint 3-4 bows. The best part that it is only about 7 bucks. It comes with the propellant and a spare jar . You may want to try before spending big bucks on a spray system
Look it up on the internet, I think you will like it.

[beachbowhunter]

I just did my first and if I can do it, anybody can. My bow had wenge which is notorious for its deep pores.  I brushed on a couple of coats of gloss that really filled the pores and as others have said, is a tougher finish and lets the wood show through. I finished with satin using the Harbor Freight touch up gun same as Bodork. I use my little compressor (Senco came with my brad nailer) and it worked great.

I use Buffalo Hide from Big Jim.