Reverse taper on longbow form?

[scars]

I ordered the longbow form kit from Binghams and the instructions say to add a reverse taper to the top of the bottom form. What does that do for the bow? And can I add a little bit of a kick to the limb tips?

Joe

[bornofmud]

That is to correct for the taper in the limbs.  Most don't do that and report no ill effects. And of course, you can do whatever you want to the bingham design, you're the one making it after all!

[scars]

Thanks B
I was trying to figure out why I needed that, the scarf joint would take care of what I thought it was there for. I have this picture of an old Bear with a maple core tips are flipped up about an inch or so.

[NormanDale33]

We made the td longbow with the reverse taper...don't like it and won't droit again. Limbs feel spongy and not very efficient. Like the design of the riser and I am going to make new limbs with a taper that matches another bow I have. Fun to build though.

[Bowjunkie]

Norman, he's talking about putting the taper on the bow form, not in the actual bow.

[kennym]

If your form is strait thru the riser portion, just be sure to put the taper on the belly side so a taper under the strait riser doesn't make fat glue lines at riser ends.
Assuming this is the strait 68" bow.....

They put a reverse on the form to make the riser fit where you have a taper on the form side of riser.

[monterey]

Originally posted by scars:
I ordered the longbow form kit from Binghams and the instructions say to add a reverse taper to the top of the bottom form. What does that do for the bow? And can I add a little bit of a kick to the limb tips?

Joe

I would suggest you go with the Bingham design if you want to reflex it.  They call for a reflex in arc of a circle of 72".  Should be in the Bingham instruction papers.  If you don;t have them, suggest you get them.

Kenny is correct, as long as you don't have any tapers under the riser in your lay up it is moot.

[scars]

Thanks everyone,

For my first two bows I will use the tube form.  One straight, one reflexed. On the prints the reflex is 144" R. I think I am going to skip the reverse tappers and if needed will just scribe the riser to the stack.

Joe

[Crooked Stic]

Also if you have a thickness sander. After you scarf your lams. Make a pencil mark where you fade will be on the scarfed lams. Then run them thru the sander until the pencil mark starts to go away. This also thins that area for an easier bend around the riser.