Do you tiller different for different release styles?

[halfseminole]

If so, I'm glad to be instructed of it before I go charging off making my swap bow.

For example, I shoot an equal amount of pinch or thumb, with or without ring (though I shoot with a ring whenever I have it.)  Is there something I do different versus say a three-under?  I'd like the person whose name I draw to get a bow that's worth using, not just a bow that is something to look at from time to time.

[bigbob2]

I limb time each of my glass bows on a jig getting the tips timed from a position that the user would place fingers, ie either 3 under or split. Either way has a different position for drawing string back, roughly 1/8'' positive for split and neutral or a little negative tiller for 3 under . hope this rambling is of some use.

[LittleBen]

I do not tiller them any differently. I don't think it makes a ton of difference most of the time. But what the heck do I know, maybe it does ....

I usually shoot for between neutral and 1/16" positive. I shoot 3 under, but like Bob was saying, I find that slight negative tiller also shoots well for me 3 under.

[Trapper Rob]

Roy showed me to tiller them different he told me with three under your pulling more center I feel sure he'll jump in here he can tell you better about it.

[John Scifres]

Here's how I tiller to get it really close.   http://hedgerowselfbows.webs.com/fromblanktobow.htm

But final tiller is done in the hand.  You need to mimic the style the shooter has.  I doubt that most people could tell the difference between one tillered for split v. 3 under.

[Bowjunkie]

I couldn't always tell the difference, but nowadays I think I can... usually with the first shot or two.

I tiller/time them from the get-go as precisely as possible according to how the bow and string will be held. I've designed my tillering tree to be versatile in both how it holds the handle and where the string is pulled from. 4 pulleys down by the floor set up for split and 3-under depending on whether the top limb is facing left or right, plus they're infinitely adjustable if something different is needed... The tree also has variously shaped inserts for the cradle that holds the handle. During tillering, the hook on the string replicates the string hand's fulcrum with respect to a predetermined 3/8" high nock point and limbs are harmonized to bring that straight back and move straight forward upon release. When it's done, it's done. There's no guesswork, no need to move the nock point around trying to balance/time the bow, improve arrow flight, or mask other inadequacies. It has been built from the beginning to balance perfectly in the hand, shoot an arrow straight away, and tiller doesn't shift during shooting in.

I can absolutely tell the difference, often in the very first arrow shot, if I designed and tillered/timed the bow with respect to the way it will be shot. When it's right, that first arrow will be a jaw-dropping moment. The second, quickly nocked and loosed for affirmation... ahhhh... THAT'S what I'm talkin' about  

Much of my bowmaking revolves around that ultimate, harmonious destination. Shouldn't the perfectly balanced draw, pristene arrow flight, and well-tuned/behaved bow be built-in?... predictable? I think so, and that's what I work toward.

[halfseminole]

So then you understand why I ask.  From what I can tell my grips are more forgiving, but if I switch (which I cannot do for long) to either split or three-under I can tell a difference in bows.  What I may have to do is have my brother who spent a lot of time in archery himself shoot in the bow if I can't make my hands cooperate, but I'm gonna look into the inserts for tiller tree, as I'm making a new one for the swap.  Any pics you don't mind sharing?

[bigbob2]

agree with all you said bowjunkie. Using a bow tuned for split and shooting 3 under or vice versa,mostly results in a bow where the difference can often be heard, not to mention often getting a little hand shock.