my first primitive arrow. lots 'o' pics

[wazabodark]

I managed to piece together a little of what I liked from several different sources and made my first arrow from scratch. Lots of guidance from Jawge and his sight. So a special thanks to him. This one is spruce. I tried using fir on three others bot they didn't hold up to the shaping
 process, which involve running the octagonal blanks through two different box head wrenches. Forgot who gave me that idea but thanks to you, also. 5/16 at the nock and 11/32 at the point. 31" from nock seat to back of broadhead. Cut he head from a skillsaw blade and fletched it with a simple jig I saw on another site. Thanks to Art for pointing me in that direction. I used parabolic fletched because that's what I have right now. Would have preffered shield cut. I'm supposed to be getting a fletching jig tomorrow so I won't be doing any more tied on fletched. Too abo for my taste. But just in case, anyone got any pointers about tied down fletching? Will the gaps in my feathers affect the flight? Please chime in. This is a learning experience for me so any criticism is welcome. Thanks again everyone that helped. Whether you knew it or not.

[fujimo]

awesome job!!!
that will kill a deer as good as the most expensive arrow.
maybe thinner thread on your fletch wrap- silk or sinew.
i sure like your leather jigs to hold the feathers- neat idea.
 you can run a very light bead of ca glue or fletch glue down either side of the fletches, to keep them secure if you are worried. but no, the gaps will not effect the arrow noticably- unless they move.
i would saturate the fletching thread and nock wrap with ca glue- if you havent done so already- cant see in the pics. that will ensure longevity  for the thread.
looks great- keep building.  

[wazabodark]

Thanks fujimo. BTW, what's ca glue? I see it mentioned on this site frequently, but I've never heard of it anywhere else. Can I get it at one of th home stores or is it specific to archery?

[Pat B]

CA glue is super glue.
 I don't wrap down the fletching, just fore and aft. I also think your thread is a bit thick like fujimo and I also use silk thread or sinew for nock, fletching and point wrap.
 I prefer to haft the point first so I can do a good spin test before adding the fletching. The shafts spins better without fletching. For the spin test I spin the arrow with the point on the tip of my finger. If there is the least amount of wobble I can feel it.

[macbow]

Very nice. Agree with the other comments on the thread.
Like your leather jig also.

[fujimo]

i am not smart enough to do the finger spin test, so i made a simple spin tester. a 2x4 as long as the arrows will handle- with two scrap pieces of ply on the ends, with a deep(1" at least) V notch cut in each onei have some parallel lines drawn on the 2x4 running the length of the 2x4, about 1/4" apart.
so i lay the arrow in the notches, turn it slowly by hand keep my head real steady- sight over the arrow, and line it up with one of the parallel lines, and as i turn it i can see any deviance away from that line, or if it obliterates the line as it revolves, whip it off- straighten with chosen method and continue.
make sure your center line runs from deepest part of the V on one side to the deepest part of the v on the other.
i also use this to check my broadheads- sight the point of the b/h with a small spot on the work bench , and see if it deviates as you rotate the shaft.- keeping your head dead still!

have also seen them built with two large nails pounded in on either end forming an X- so it creates the notch's.

i certainly respect those guys who take a shaft, balance it on a finger tip, and use a deft flick of the fingers to spin it. just not for me i guess!