Changing tiller on a fiberglass back/belly bow

[Bud B.]

I have a low weight bow that likes a high nocking point for the arrow. I want to drop the nocking point some by changing tiller. Shooting split three the string nock is almost 1" high. I nock the arrow above the string nock.

The lower limb is what's needing the adjustment, correct?

And I plan on taking little by little from each side of the limb with sandpaper (hand sanding) and checking frequently.

But....

What do y'all recommend?

[Bud B.]

I should add that when strung the lower limb appears to have a flat spot just past the riser fades and the working part of the limb is about half way from riser to the RD tip.

[macbow]

Did you measure the distance from the fades to the string?

[Bud B.]

Originally posted by macbow:
Did you measure the distance from the fades to the string?

Top 7"

Bottom 6 1/2"

[macbow]

I'd think working that  lower limb closer to 1/8 inch would help.
Also using a string nock above and below the arrow might help.

[Crooked Stic]

Yep work on the bottom limb to 1/8 or even for three under.

[heartlandbowyer]

Yes work on the bottom like the other guys said.

How long is the bow and what is the brace height? How far above center is the shelf. What style of bow?

Is the bow loud with your high nock point? You are shooting 1 over 2 under correct.

[Bud B.]

Shooting split three, one over two under.

Bow is a mild RD longbow and is 60". String is 57".

Shelf is at 29" mark from bottom nock. Brace is 6.25" and it shoots great, but, the arrow has to be nocked so high I wanted it to be a little more to center. It does not kick and has no hand shock.

This is not a must do, but is more of a desire to get the nock point down to a better position visually. With the nock point so high it looks waaaay off.

Is 1/2" difference at the fades normal?

[T Folts]

1/2" is not normal, typically bows will be anywhere from even to 1/4. Thats typical, some are out side of that but not by much.

[suburbanirma]

Half inch at top limb fadeout is a bit much. For split fingers, typically is 1/8" or slightly more. For three under, it is close to 0".

[Bud B.]

I can't help but think of those Japanese bows with the tall upper limb when I look at it. It's not that extreme, but it reminds me of one. It's just a personal preference thing.

Thanks for the input guys.

Bud

[bamboo]

that's an odd measurement for the bottom to shelf--most rd's would measure in the 31"-32"range

that's not to say its wrong---but changing the tiller 1/2" might not help with that layout-might be fine too--IMO its risky

[heartlandbowyer]

Your shelf is only .5" above center, I typically have mine around 1.25" above center. Not a huge deal, if the bow is shooting well and feels good I would leave it alone. if the looking odd is really bugging you get a feather rest to put on the shelf they are almost a 1/2 inch tall so your nock point will be around .5 which isn't odd. Also I would tie on another nock point just to help keep the arrow from shifting on release. The high positive tiller may have been done that way to balance the bow.

You will shoot a bit high by raising the shelf but I would leave the tiller alone unless you have experience or you may ruin the bow. Start sanding and get the limb twisting and you'll be sorry you messed with it.

COry

[Bud B.]

The 29" mark was taken with bow strung and braced to the 6.25". I measured from the bottom nock groove, while strung, up the string, so 28.5 would be the half way point of the 57" string. Nock to nock strung is 57". Unstrung is 60". That would put the shelf about 1/2" north of bow center.

[Bob at Work]

Bud B.- what have you done since last post?  I have a bow that's about the same...