Maple and Ceader Tiller advice

[DD9000]

Here is my latest attempt.  This is a Maple Board from one of the Big Box stores. I have steered away from the maple until now as they have only had really light boards with terrible grain but this one seemed to be quite straight and unusually heavy compared to the rest...

I think it has been coming along well but I am looking for any advice from everyone here on how I might minimize set while tillering it and any other ways to improve it....      


Here is Unbraced
     

I have it on a short string at about a 5 inch brace right now.
     

And here is at 19 inches. It is pulling 35 here and I was hoping to get it to around 40 at 28.

   

It looks like there is a little flat spot on the right limb to me mid limb.
It also has developed my signature twist at the tips, that I am working on fixing....    
Anything else that my amateur eye is missing?

Thanks Much for all the help.

Dave

[John Scifres]

Get a pulley on your tree.  Maple will compress a lot and holding it at draw worsens this set.  

I would not pull it close to draw weight when you are 9" short of draw length. That also invites more set than is necessary.  

The right limb is bending more than the left, mostly at the spot 4-5" from the fade that is a little hingy, and that spot about 6" from the tip.  

Mark the 2 hingy spots with "NO" and scrape the rest of the limb 10-20 times until that is corrected.  

I'd also scrape the left limb full lengtht the same number until it evens up with the right.Work the midlimb on the right

[DD9000]

John, Thank you, I will look carefully at that limb The two spots you mention I think are where I had a little tear out when I was using the sureform,
 I thought I had it evened back up but looks like perhaps not

I'd like to have a wall mounted tree with a pulley but I just work in my garage and have to move things around to get the space to do so. So no free wall space....
I'll try to not ever leave it on the tree.
Probably why the last one I made took so much set.
To take the picture was the longest that I have left this one on there for so far...

Thanks again.

[fujimo]

i never leave my bows at draw longer than max 2 seconds, and thats for well shot in bows, when i am shooting- on the tree, no longer than a second really.
i have seen bows bust when holding them under strain for  longer than a few seconds.

x2 x2 what john says!!- he knows what he's talking about- have you seen the awesome bows he builds!!

a 4x4 taller than you need, just clamped to a stud at the top and bottom- so away from your working area. will work well. bow shelf just above  eye level, pulley at a lower level- above the clamp, and when not in use, stand it in the corner.

have fun!!

[DD9000]

Fujimo,

Thanks, I'm intrigued by your idea to make a portable tree that has a pulley, however I'm not positive that I understand what you are describing.


Do you mean to just clamp the tree to a stud in the wall or somewhere else, so it could be moved later.....

The wall likely won't  work as all space except the door is covered with shelving etc....

Am I understanding you correctly?
Thanks

[fujimo]

yup that was what i was meaning, just so that it was portable. is there no way that you can put 2x4 extensions off the back of the tree- and they can reach back somewhere past the face of the shelves or other onstructions so that they can be fastened/pinned or clamped securely.