Help a Newbie Pick His First Stave?

[Ookami]

Hi guys! been a while since I've posted here, Thanks to you guy's help I've successfully managed to make a proper board bow!, Now I want to kick things up a bit with an Osage modern flat bow, I've been looking around online for a stave, I've narrowed it down to two that at least to me seem pretty good, but can't decide between the two , and I also want to make sure that they are in fact decent staves, If you guys could take a look at them and advise me I'd much appreciated it!

links to them are posted Below

   Stave 1

   Stave 2

[Echatham]

they look ok except the early to late wood ratio isn't so great.  see the dark and light rings in the heartwood?  what you really want is alot of dark wood to not alot of light wood.  they also look pretty fresh cut so you would have some time on your hands waiting for them to dry.  try to find you one like this.  it has a good ratio and the the rings are nice and fat... easy to chase.
 

[J.F. Miller]

I would not pay money for either of those staves. I love it that the seller has described both of them as having "medium rings". uuummm, no those growth rings are extra, extra thin.

[Ookami]

Thanks for the advice,  I shall continue the hunt! I was thinking that staying with in a single growth ring would be a bit difficult on those staves

[Ookami]

Stave 3  

What do you guys think of this one? Growth Rings are much wider, however those knots have me concerned, Should they pose a problem?

[LittleBen]

Rings on that one are much better. It's definately a little snakey, but as long as you follow the grain on the sides and let the bow follow that snakey shape, you'll be fine. I think ....

[Eric Krewson]

I would go with stave #3, a little heat gun work will be necessary but with the better rings and and longer length you will have a much easier time making a bow.

[Echatham]

them knots are nothing to worry about.  ive never had a stave with less character than that  

[Eric Krewson]

If you get stave #3, you better get that sapwood off as soon as the stave arrives and reseal the back. Where I live there is not enough sealer in the world to prevent a fresh cut stave with bark removed and sapwood left on from checking deeply down the back.

[Roy from Pa]

# 3 is real nice, I just might bid on it.. So you better hurry.. LOL

[Ookami]

#3 it is!  Thanks guys,  and about how long would I have to wait before the moisture level is low enough for it to be usable? (after I rough it out) doesn't say how long it's been cut so I'm a bit in the dark about that

[Roy from Pa]

Not knowing when it was cut or how it was stored makes that a tuff question. You need to purchase a moisture meter first of all. But for a guess here I would say 2 - 3 months after getting it close to bow shape and keeping it stored in a warm dry place for those 2 - 3 months.

[Ookami]

Actually scratch that,  it does say it, about a month ago, dunno how I didn't see that

[Echatham]

Moisture meter is well worth the money.  I would hate to be without it

[John Scifres]

You can work a stave a little right after shaping it.  I'd bend it and see how it responds.  If it feels sluggish and doesn't return to shape right away, leave it rest another month.  Indoors, ina heated house in the winter, it should dry some after that.  Keep at it until it is springy and feels alive and then make your bow.