What bow needs fade-outs??? (Update!)

[John Scifres]

It should work

[fujimo]

you could flip that ash stave on its side and treat it as a 1/4 sawn board, should still make a great bow!
so now you would have a board 4" wide and an inch thick, in fact you would get two bows out of it, side by side!
 never done that, but  1/4 sawn hickory is used for backing strips all the time. i would think ash would perform the same!

[RedStag5728]

*~* Another Update *~*

Because of the snow I was able to work on it yesterday and I got 'er to full brace height at 5-1/2" and start bending her. From what I can tell she's going to be lighter than I originally planned but oh well, it's better to have a lighter working bow than a 50# broken one!

So far, I know that knot area is still too stiff, but I want some opinions.

Here's the brace height picture:

 

And here's a video of my bending test out to 20".

 http://vidmg.photobucket.com/albums/v352/Number01hunter/MVI_0300_zpsrzrqbixu.mp4


Here's the reason that first 1/3 of the limb on the right is stiff.

 

 

 

 

Is it ok to leave this area stiff? or should I take it down a little more and make it bend a little more than what it is? Do my fades look good?

How should I proceed?


Thanks,

Randy

[fujimo]

maybe its my eyes ( or should I rather say - eye!!)mate- but not sure I really see a problem there
I see two little pin knots, and a grain island- that might have been a knot further into the tree- the pin knots would not worry me, but for the other- if I was really worried about it- I would put some silk on the back- I love silk backings- looks good, cheap insurance against a splinter lifting- and don't rob too much from the performance- other option is to rawhide the back- that will really help!!
now at this stage that may all feel a little daunting- but its super easy to do- and big peace of mind.
whether its needed or not?- only one way of finding out it was needed- shoot it till it breaks- then you will know you should have put some on   :D    :D      

it just seems you have put so much careful effort into this bow- I would hate to see you lose it now.
others with a lot more experience will chime in here for sure!
but you are doing it right- going slow- asking lots of questions- and yer learning stuff- that a straight forward bow would never have taught you      :D  
cheers
wayne

[John Scifres]

If it were me, I'd keep going.  Just don't pull it past your desired draw weight or length.

[RedStag5728]

Thanks for the replies.

Fujimo, those knots were much bigger further into the limbs but I have worked them out to where they are now. And your right, I am taking it slow (maybe even too slow) but I feel like I should take every approach to ensure I am making the right decisions. And yes, perhaps the only way to learn these right directions is with knowledge and  experience.

John, thanks and this bow is already lighter. I went to draw it to 50# after switching to full brace height seeing as how full brace height tiller wasn't too bad. And she was at 47# at 28" (I didn't go past 28") with the tiller still uneven (the right limb still being stiffer). So I am still going to lose weight working that limb down and getting it to bend more.

I'll probably end up with it being something like 40# @ 28" which is fine, like I said I'd rather have a lighter working bow than a heavy broken one. And besides I can always pike it, toast the belly, etc. to bring weight up. So I'm going to take a chance and am going to get both limbs bending evenly. If she blows then I'll know for the future whether or not to leave wood or not. I'll keep you guys posted.

[takefive]

Your fades look great; that's a nice smooth taper to the limbs.  I'd just keep using the gizmo and get both limbs bending evenly.  Like Wayne said, you can back it if you're worried about those knots.  Cherry bark is my personal favorite, but silk or rawhide will do the job as well.

[takefive]

Oops...I didn't see your last post while I was typing mine.  That's the attitude!    
Keep us posted.

[George Tsoukalas]

Red Stage, I think you have a good eye for tiller.
I was going to say the inner limbs look stiff too.

A couple of points...

I long string tiller out to 10" looking for good limb bending and around my target bow weight or a little greater. It takes me a few hours to get there because I don't push it. I found that at 10" the target weight of the finshed bow is right on.

Knots should be tillered to appear stiff in relation to the rest of the limb...by just a little.

Jawge

[RedStag5728]

~*Another Update!*~

Sorry it's been a little while, been busy with work, and finalizing the bow and now I am back to the work table building bow #3.

George, thanks for the input, yeah I learned that I kept this bow on the long string far too long and the end result was a bow too light. I will try your suggestion for bow #3.

Well this bow I have finalized, I worked the fade and knot area a little more to have an even bend with the other limb and suprisingly it didn't take too much wood to make a difference. I also piked an inch off of each limb to get some fps out of her and gained about 8 fps from doing so as well as a few pounds.

As of right now she stands at 43# @ 28"

I have since put about 100 arrows through her, and even put her up to the test with my chronograph. As of now she has taken about 1 1/2" of set and she is putting an overly stiff spine 545 grain arrow through the chrony at 138 fps on average.

I decided to try a lighter arrow and weaker spine. A 425 grain river cane arrow unfletched (bareshaft tuned) flew perfectly at a speed of 150. I am rather satisfied with that! Especially with a bow that is slightly over built, and with a low draw weight.

I think this bow is going to be a practice/target bow until I make one a little heavier in weight and properly built vs. overbuilt for my hunting bow. Right now I am in the process of applying several coats of Tung Oil on the bow and some shafts from Surewood Shafts. I am on coat 5 of 8 on the bow. When that's finished I have a piece of suede leather I will stitch into a nice grip and a bear hide strike plate from 3rivers to apply.

Then I will take pictures and post 'em!

Thanks for taking this ride along with me guys and helping me along the way! I know I have been quite obnoxious with the questions but I didn't want this bow to end up like my first (a pile of splinters).

The next bow is going to be hickory as well and I think I am going to change the design to 2" out to past mid limb before tapering to 1/2" knocks and try to get that 50 or 55# draw I'm looking for! Wish me luck!                        

[fujimo]

if you wanted you could always pike the bow, and recover some of that draw weight.
excellent job man!  

[RedStag5728]

All right guys pictures are in!

I had the pleasure of shooting this bow at the Dixie Bow shoot in Disputana, Virginia yesterday and the bow caught some attention!

I even ran it by the inspection of my teacher and mentor and he approved! So I am more than happy with this bow!

Here's the long awaited pictures!

   

   

   

   

   

   

   

I stitched on a suede leather grip and added a bear hair rest from 3 rivers. Now I am in the works of tuning some douglas fir arrows to the bow and I'll be hunting with her this fall!

I once again would like to thank you guys for all the help and opinions! Couldn't have done it without you!

[takefive]

Good looking bow!  Judging by the mounts behind you, I don't have to wish you much luck this fall.  
Nice work!

[RedStag5728]

Thanks Takefive!  

heh, I wish those were my mounts, they're my dads. Although the elk hide I have the bow laying on is mine but I took the elk non-traditional (rifle). And the bear is my dad's as well.     :rolleyes:    

So please wish me luck this fall! I'm going to try to change some things and hunt from the ground in a ghillie suit, try to be up close and personal to be effective with the self bow!                

[LittleBen]

Great work on your bow! Hickory is some tough stuff, and seems to cooperate well with heating etc if needed.

Again, great job.

[bubby]

great bend on the piece of hickory, you did a fine job

[takefive]

Good luck to you this fall then, Randy.  Hope you take a nice buck with the fine bow you made    

[takefive]

[George Tsoukalas]

Oh yes. Very nice. Jawge

[RedStag5728]

Thanks everybody!

I'm working on #3; some design changes I am going with the next one is going 2" wide out to about 1"  past midlimb then tapering and this time I am going to go heavier, say 55# at 28" or so.

I've already got a few 'customers' if you will my father says he would like to have one for him. He's 6'4" and has about a 30" draw so for him the the bow I make for him is going to be full length of the stave (72").

My nephew loves the bow, I let him shoot it. I probably will make me and dad a bow with hunting weights and give this one to my nephew for his first self-bow. It will be an easy one for him to grow up into.