Now we're talking! HBO Success!

[cunruhshoot]

Well it took three tries. First try was BBH FAIL - lifted a spinter, Second try was to remove the Bamboo and replace - worked for a short time and then fail - not to mention it was down to 35# at that point. Third try - ordered Osage and Hickory backing  - Roy's recommendation on the Osage. I also did a bit more research on proper tillering and here ya go! I am sure the tiller is not all that it could be but it is shooting so nice!

60# @ 28" 64" tip to tip. I put a para cord wrap for the handle temporarily until I pick up some more leather.


 


 


 


 

I will try to get a full draw pick when my wife returns home from shopping -

Any input on tiller or anything else that will help me with the next bow is appreciated! I have been a glass bow builder from day one but building this bow was a whole new kind of fun...and I am shocked at how well it shoots.

[cunruhshoot]

Here is a full draw pic...

 

[Roy from Pa]

Well if that's the best you can do, then I guess it's Ok..  

[Roy from Pa]

Actually I kinda like it.

Not too shabby.

Sort of Ok..

OK OK, ya done good....

But I think the top limb is bending too much at mid limb.

[cunruhshoot]

Thanks Roy - yep the top limb is bending too much at mid limb. I was taking 35 scrapes off the stiff sections and I believe that is too many at one time. Need to go back to 15 scrapes and re-check.

Roy - should I try to get it bending more out of the fade? or leave it alone?

[Roy from Pa]

Yup 35 is "way" too many, try 10. Yes I would try a little outside the fades, not much though.

[Trapper Rob]

Looks sharp.

[takefive]

Good looking bow    
That has to be my favorite wood combo as well.

[mikkekeswick]

Yes you top outer limb is stiff. I wouldn't touch the inner limb at all.

[Eric Krewson]

Do you have a tillering gizmo? It will help  prevent hingy limbs during the tillering process.

 http://tradgang.com/noncgi/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=125;t=001047#000000

I use the ten scrape rule as well as I get further along in the tillering process. I switch to an orbital sander for the final tillering adjustments.

[cunruhshoot]

Eric - I have read through your thread on the gizmo and I used just a 6 in block on this bow but I have started building a gizmo according to your latest update and I want to run it on this bow to see where I get pencil marks.  I think it will make things a whole lot easier.

[LookMomNoSights]

Very nice!

[cunruhshoot]

Ok I have a question...Now that I have final tillering on this bow and I have shot it in with about 400 arrows through it. Can I use the heat gun method to reflex the tips a bit to add some reflex into the bow?

This may not even be an option because it is a Hickory backed Osage and heating it up may impact the glue joint between the Hickory and the Osage. I know that this could have been done at initial glue up. And in fact I did glue some backset into it when I glued up the Hickory backing and now that it is shot in it is very close to being straight limb bow...maybe just a little string follow but not much.

[Bowjunkie]

No, I wouldn't risk it. I don't know what kind of glue you used, but Smooth On can handle SOME slight heat correction, Tightbond... not so much.

A better method would be to saw a kerf into the end of the limb for about 12" and slide a short lamination in there, and glue the outer limb while pressing it into a form of the shape you choose.

That said, I'd probably just enjoy it for what it is and start another.

[Roy from Pa]

Make another bow... You need the practice  

[cunruhshoot]

You got that right Roy- I ordered some more Osage from Pine Hollow last night and I am excited to make some more yellow sawdust. I also ordered a DVD from Pine Hollow for additional insight and instruction.

[Roy from Pa]

Atta Boy....