new build...lots of questions

[Matthew Williams]

OK first off, I have enjoyed this site and all the build alongs. So I think I'm ready to make my first bow, I'm comfortable in the 40 something # range and I don't think my wife can even comfortably do 40#. I've started a form( I'll post pics soon) that I kinda just copied off of one of my dads bows and I'll build a hot box next.

My main concerns are that I don't want to buy a expensive kit for first build. I'm not sure on what taper I need and I'm not sure how much fade out I need in my riser. I'm going for a longbow at a 28" pull. Can I use a nice parallel piece as my center and tapered for back and belly?

I'm gonna need a little help on these issues. And as I go on with the build I will be open to "constructive" criticism.

Like I said I have loved the build along I'm just not sure where you guys come up with knowing how much to taper...how much to cut off width wise or how much fade out you need on riser.

Thanks ahead of time and I'm looking forward to your comments.

[Kopper1013]

Welcome I'm a newbi to, first off a lot of this is trial and error, I guess the biggest question these guys will ask you first is

What type of bow are you building or hoping to build? Tri-lam, glass, BBH, ect. (I'm assuming not a self bow)

The rest of the guys will help you from there, lots of help on this site so ask anything someone will always chime in

[Matthew Williams]

A tri-lam is what I want to start with. Not sure how I feel about glass vs wood. Figured I'd start out all wood. This will definitely be a learning experience.

[Kopper1013]

Everyone will be a learning experience, there are some REALLY good Tri-lam guys here if they chime in they will head you down the right road. Good luck and have fun

[Matthew Williams]

I think I may be over thinking this a bit. What would u guys suggest as a core piece thickness and what taper should I use for both sides. Can anyone give me a link to a way to calculate this for poundage and length.

[Bowjunkie]

You werent perfectly clear.... are we talking about a bow with glass front and back, or an all wooden bow... say, just three lams of wood?

If we are talking about an all wooden tri-lam, I prefer to taper the middle piece(and often the backing) and leave the belly piece parallel. This allows more material available for tillering and weight reduction without overly thinning the belly lam, which can bring you dangerously close to, or through, the glue line... which can hold potentially serious consequences, especially if different woods are used for the core and belly, with the belly wood better suited to resisting compression forces.

Degree of taper and distance between the fadeouts... I vary them according to other design parameters... like width and side profiles, bow length, handle shape, distance from handle to flares, limb cross section... etc. So it's hard to say without knowing more about your bow. Mine have finished as short between the fades as 9" and as long as 16".

In my opinion, some folks make their fadeouts too short and steep right off the bat... at glueup. I'd rather see them extend a good 2" or more past the flares with a more gradual slope... and then they can be finessed/tillered to help gradually slow the flexing into the handle area later during tillering. But again, much depends on design, limbs and handle shape, and needs considered and coordinated.

What type of woods will you be using?